I spotted this, and I have to ask if why you want to use the saws?
I know you know your stuff, so I’m not being critical, but I have to say that from my perspective, tubing cutters
are the only way to go for cutting (almost any kind of small) tubing. Especially copper. No waste except the bur you mention, which still must be removed from the inside edges, but no chips. Fast. Quiet. No danger (compared to using a saw)…
I’m with Jast, a tubing cutter is the only way to fly. If you pushed it slow, the band saws would cut it without distorting it, but probably leave a pretty juicy burr inside.
That’s cool, and looks safer than free-handing it, but makes me repeat my question about why the saw is preferable…
As a “quasi-professional” plumber, I’ve been there, done that, and hands down, it’s the tubing cutter for me…
I’m guessing the problem with a tube cutter is it causes a slightly rolled edge, I’ve noticed it on 1/8" tubes I’ve cut. On large diameter tubes, 1/2" is large compared to jewelry, the rolled edge is more significant. Also, smaller tubes have thinner walls and are more likely to collapse as a tube cutter exerts force… Think of trying to use a tube cutter on a capillary sized tube. Cutting has no rolled edge but does require more deburring.
Jast-I’ve used the type you are talking about and it’s not great for thin walled or small diameter tubing. The one for jewelry is extremely accurate and works with a jeweler’s saw.
One it leaves a sharpish edge inside the tubing, second, try using it to cut hundreds of pieces of tubing.
I can use one to cut a few lengths of tubing, but then the motion triggers my carpal tunnel.
The band saw does leave a burr, that is why I bought a gallon of nitrite acid, some years ago. I use it with water to eat the burrs off. Now I realize that when it stops working, I will have cupric nitrate, a patina chemical.
I have been told that chop saws also work.
That tool looks neat, but we can start with regular plumbing tubing sooner. I need to either find some more propane torch heads or find a way to have more for a class
I have MAPP torch head like Anne’s in my personal storage at the Space, keep the gas cylinders in my car.
If you or Anne need them for a class, my storage container is the galley, on the floor, along the wall that has the RFID reader for payments. It has my name DAVID KESSINGER and PHOTOMANCER written on outside. Root around it’s at the bottom.
Thanks, I want to set up another foldforming class and that would be useful for it. My propane torch head is not acting right, I don’t want to use it for a class
Thank you. I think most of that stuff is addressable, for example, by using a powered tubing cutter or other reasonably simple means. I suspect your chemical debur would remove the offensive ridge just as well. Of course there’s nothing wrong with simply having a preference regardless of any external reasons…
I am glad i asked. I thank all who answered. I feel enlightened.
I’m thinking about getting a small band saw for us for non ferrous metals only; will be able to cut lots of tubing among other things. I’ve added all these concerns/tools wanted for our meeting this Monday, the 28th at 7pm in the Creative Arts room. Everyone is welcome, and I’ll be making our first round of purchases based on our discussion. I’m bringing cake too
It will need the non ferrous metal blade also. Also look at the small chop saws, I am not sure which would be the most useful. The band saw can do more.
Sue and I are working on a project to use the hydraulic press to form shapes in metal. I have found scrap masonite for the dies and I need to find some inner tubes and the metal shop guys say they can help us with metal blocks.
The dies will be cut with the laser, once I figure out how to get the designs into the computer. Sue is willing to teach a class on it.
So far, no cost to us at all!
Science is considering an andonizer for using on niobium/titanium. I have done this, so I can teach a class in it.
Not sure what the inner tubes are for - but if for the presses you might consider neoprene in various thicknesses and densities. I’ve seen neoprene used extensively with drop hammers in forming metal, start if a lot and progressively remove until final shape achieved.
Non-ferrous blades on a typical general purpose consumer grade band saw is probably difficult to find. Usual parameters are blade width and teeth/per inch, teeth form/shape but all are some form of steel due to strength. I’ve seen carbide and diamond tipped, but they are on steel blades, not sure how much “contamination” from blade holding the cutting material would cause as it passes by after the cut.
