Cutting Plastic Parts


Hi, I want to make these two parts , the thicker one is PVC and the other acrylic . Any advice in how to proceed. I think using the mill could be most ideal but I don’t know if we can use it on plastics. and I’m not too familiar with the one at the space.

My procedure
Cut the stock to the required sizes using saw (5 cm x 5 cm)
Drill 4 holes in the center to make the center hole
Use the holes to insert a jig saw to cut a somewhat square hole.
Then drill press the holes in the corners

Note: The square holes can be rounded.

I can also laser cut a wood template and the follow it to make it more precise .

Any advice ?

Thank you

We have the Shapeoko that’s for cutting plastics. @Team_Machine_Shop – since there isn’t a team for the Plastics SIG.

What precision are you looking to achieve?

The internal cuts won’t be possible on the mill without some sort of fillet, since the cutting tool is round.
*disregard, I hadn’t read your plan

  • 1 mm it doesn’t have to be really precise , I just need to be able to insert a piezoelectric ceramic that is 2cm by 2cm .

What’s the process to get singed as as an user ? I think this would the most useful and easiest to do .

  1. Resin Printer. If there any reason you couldn’t 3D print these on the resin printer and then just clean up the holes with a drill press? That’s what I would do this if this were my project.

EDIT: Depending on the thickness, you can just laser cut the thinner (i.e., Acrylic) piece.

  1. Shapeoko XXL. Shapeoko XXL is feasible, but it’s not going to be nearly as easy as you think it should be. You need to know just as much machining to run it on the Shapeoko as you would need to run it on a manual mill. Your strategy to hold it onto the bed and square/parallel will be crucial - there’s no vise. IIWM, I’d drill two small holes in the center of the stock and bolt the stock onto your own spoil board. I’d machine the outer edges and the four corner holes. Then I’d screw through the corner holes into the spoil board (or use clamps), remove the center screws, and machine the center cavity. Then I’d remove it from the Shapeoko and drill the lengthwise hole using the drill press.

  2. Sherline mill is a feasible solution. The vise opens to 2", so if your part is truly 5cm it should just barely fit.

(a) Cut your stock to size using a saw of some type - but cut a little large. If you need this thing square, you will have to square it on the mill unless saw cut is good enough.

(b) You don’t need starter holes for the interior cavity, just mill them out. If you need to put something square into that cavity, then make a final pass using a small endmill (1/8") and “dog ear” the corners slightly by going slightly past the edge.

(c) Is the thicker one really 2 cm thick?? You’re probably going to have to use at least a 1/4" end mill to get that depth of cut (and obviously not all in one pass). BTW, thickness isn’t specified on the thinner piece.

(d) It’s unlikely that we have a 6mm drill. 6mm is 0.2362" - but it’s possible we have a 15/64" which is 0.234. If it’s just a clearance hole that might be good enough.

(e) You will probably have to drill the two (lengthwise?) holes in the thicker part using the drill press/vise because I’m pretty sure you aren’t going to have enough column height to use a drill that long in the Sherline. I just set it up in my Sherline and I don’t have enough height … but if we have a 1/4" chuck with a morse taper for the headstock, you might just barely squeak by.

(f) BTW, Sherline mill is Training Required.

  1. Bridgeport mill. You could easily do the thicker one on the Bridgeport using the same steps I describe above, but I’d be concerned about bending the thinner one in the Bridgeport’s vise.
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Thank You for your advice, I just signed up for the Shapeoko class and i’ll be waiting to see if there is one for the Sherline mill