Compression Testing of Cylinders

Hi, I’m new to the makerspace and cars in general. I heard there is a compression testing machine for engine cylinders at the DMS, How would I go about using it? I have a 1989 Honda Prelude and I will probably need to replace the rear main seal, so I wanted to see if I should get the block machined, as the block will likely have to come out.

It should be on the shelves beside the lift.
It will look similar to these.
Have you used on before?

https://www.google.com/search?q=compression+tester&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiqy5vN4a3cAhWrIJoKHaguDPwQ_AUIDCgD&biw=1534&bih=758&dpr=1.25&safe=active&ssui=on

Iirc, you should be able to access the rear main seal by dropping the transmission.
Also, if you’re getting good power and fuel economy, there’s likely no need to replace your piston rings/rebuild your engine(unless you want to).

1 Like

Welcome the the Space Daniel!

1: A compression test is basic, and requires removing the spark plugs. The compression tester is a pretty basic tool, but like using anything for the first time, a lesson on “hot to” in real time is the way to go.

2: The real main seal is located at the back of the engine between the engine and the transmission. Most folks remove the transmission to access this seal.
a: Why do you think it is leaking?
b: Manual or auto transmission?

I am usually at the Space in the evenings a couple of nights a week & I will be there this sunday Afternoon. When were you thinking of doing the compression test?

3 Likes

Thanks, I just ordered some new spark plugs so I’ll probably be in around Wednesday to do the test, once they come in. I haven’t done it before, but I’m down to try and learn : )

I did want to do the rebuild just because the car has 227k miles on the clock and I have no idea how hard it was driven and what maintenance was done, so I wanted to change out the seals and such.

I talked with a bunch of people in the space and we came to the conclusion it was the rear main, since the valve cover is clean, but there is a pretty significant oil leak at the bottom. The engine has a little window to view the clutch and such, and the clutch is covered in oil. It’s a manual transmission.

1 Like

Timing belt or chain/guides depending on what is in it.

1 Like

Is it in “collector” condition? Sounds like you’re a fan of the model?
Fuel economy is generally a good basis for what the condition of the engine is. If it’s still within an acceptable range of what it ought to be when was in the 20-30k miles. It’s fine.
If you’re going to rebuild it, blue-printing it with “good stuff” parts may be a good idea if it’s a keeper.