So we’ve got a long print running and I’m wanting to be helpful around the space. I noticed the covers look pretty dirty, and was going to clean them, but I wanted to make sure I use the right cleaning fluid on them first. Any ideas what to use for cleaning? Is it better if I leave that to someone else?
The problem is that someone already used the wrong stuff and they are permanently dirty looking.
This is why spitshine only works in Looney Tunes. LOL
the wrong stuff could actually be the right stuff, but not enough elbow grease.
crud cutter is what is recommended, you usually have to do it a few times, especially if it’s been a while. the first cleaning will just make it look worse but will make the second round work better. keep scrubbing with microfiber cloths, not paper towels.
the “never use” cleaning solution is anything alcohol based since it’s acrylic, it will cause micro cracks that get stressed and crack horizontally across the front of the curve.
alternatively we offer replacements for the clear hood pieces. you just have to pay for parts and time.
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Okay so I spent about 2 hours cleaning 91 with Krud Kutter over and over again. If it looks better, it’s… negligible. Maybe we should try alternatives. Or—yeah—replacements.
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Yeah I gave one or two others to try with some the other day and it did not make a difference at all. I think at this point it must have had some other chemical used on it to try to clean it (whether it was alcohol, or I’m thinking more like acetone?) That screwed it up completely.
Up to the 3D fab chair to figure out if it’s worth replacing right now or wait a little longer.
Novus 3 then Novus 2 would work to polish them up, just dunno if there’s any available in the space. Laser used to have some, don’t know the current status.
Depending what they’re made of, we could try acetone vapor polishing? Little bit of work with 400 sandpaper, follow up with 800, then put it in the vapor bath.
Or maybe even just use plastic polish and a buffing pad?
Is this necessary if we can get/keep teh cameras running? I know when I was able to use a camera, it did everything I needed to that didn’t actually necessitate visiting the printer and opening the cover.
I realize the camera have been a challenge, but my understanding is this is mostly a hardware/cabling problem. It seems like one we might collectively be able to solve.
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90% of the cameras are working - that being said, if we can fix the covers easily enough why wouldn’t we.
When trying to see if the first few layers have adhered/etc, or if I’m just swinging by to check my print, it’s annoying to have to be logged into the computer, log into the octoprint instance, check the cameras which may or may not be lagging or slightly not aimed correctly/ etc.
Acetone is going over the top, IMO. Novus products are specifically meant for scratch removal and polishing of plastics, so I’d strongly recommend going that route first.
Thanks for spending your time doing this, even if the results weren’t what you hoped for.
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No problem! It was a worthwhile experiment at least. And I’m happy to try more options if they’re approved. Hopefully we can figure out something that works! I’m happy to put in some more hours if we come up with something more effective. 
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Cloudy covers may contribute to the broken window effect and do not look good on potential member tours. 3D fab is the first stop on our tours; we should try to make a good impression and actually let the potential members see the machines in action.
I agree that clearing these up is not mission critical to actual 3D printing, but there are other factors to consider . . .
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don’t even think about it. cleaning a machine that uses ABS parts should never have acetone used for cleaning. you also shouldn’t use acetone on acrylic
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So the prefered solution from my point of view is to either have Polyprinter replace them or to correctly rework them (more on that after we talk to Polyprinter).
It doesn’t have to be just those PCs. You can check your prints from your phone or on anything connected to the wifi. I used to set up my filament, wait for the chamber to come up to temperature and then start prints while attending the committee meetings.
There is a polish used for buffing light aircraft plexiglass windshields that is a mild abrasive, but fine enough to result in a clear result. We’d use it for buffing out spots cause by fluid splashes. I’m trying to remember the name, but haven’t come up with it yet.
Stuff I remember was in a squeeze bottle, but this sounds similar.
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This would probably cause more damage. Assuming I found the right one, the SDS for this states it’s mostly ethanol which is bad for the PolyPrinter covers.
I feel like this thread is beating a dead horse… PolyPrinter has made their stance clear on it, beyond this it’s up to Nate as chair to figure out what he wants to do. No one should be trying out or suggesting things otherwise.
The most appropriate way to clean it (as Krud isn’t removing it) would likely me a wet sand of increasing fineness. With no harsh chemicals in it - but at this point it’s probably more worth just replacing them ($ vs member time/etc)