Can the lasers help with…

Howdy all laser experts, I have quite the problem with cutting a fabric to an exact dimension by hand. The piece of fabric I have has multiple dimensions to it that make it more difficult to cut by hand without it stretching and causing distortions. The fabric I have is of a velvet type material. If it’s able to be laser cut that would help lots and I will be able to move on to my next mission.

@AmeliaG has had success with lasering various fabrics

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The pole on velvets makes them really tricky to cut. I’ll look for some pointer tutorials on it.

Re:laser
The fabric needs to be safe to laser, so you need to know exactly what it is made of.
In general cottons are safe, as are polyesters… as long as they don’t have there coatings.
Other fabrics have pvc- which emits chlorine gas when burned- and it’s bad for the laser as well as toxic to the person.

Find the content and check with team laser before attempting.

Test on scrap. A starter setting would be 5 power and 100 speed.

Alternative 1:
You could cut a cardboard template on the laser, take it home, spray it with basting adhesive, and cut it out with micro-serrated scissors (which prevent the fabric from slipping in the scissors).

Alternative 2:
Flip your digital patter backwards.
Print on the plotter printer
Take it home
Spray with basting spray
Adhere the fabric to it evenly
Cut it.

Alt3:
Just like the others, but draw your pattern onto interfacing, spray w/ permanent 3m adhesive, apply to fabric, cut with micro serrated scissors, leave the interfacing on the fabric.

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I also don’t know if you’re lining a box or making a garment/bag.

Other cutting methods:
Many polyesters can be cut with a soldering iron.
If you don’t have one with temperature control you can use a dimmer switch extension cord to decrease the power to it.
Keep a moist old washcloth on a plate, and clean the soldering iron blade between each cut.

Tips:
Melt from the back
Remember to flip your pattern over of you’re cutting from the back.

And remember to test it and feel confident before moving on the the final piece.

As far as the material I can find that out exactly. The fabric is going to be a liner for the inside of a box. As far as the type of fabric it is, the fabric does not seem to have any coating nor backing material on it. The original piece seems to have a plastic coating on the backing. As far as the fabric I’m using for the new liner it does not. My goal would be to draw the dimensions in the computer and go about it that way but doing it where I cut a starter piece to stick to the back of the fabric is probably my next way to go about it. I hope these pictures help clarify the type of material exactly if not I will take a trip back to johanns today to find the roll of fabric facts. Thank you for your help.




Took a trip to johanns where I bought the fabric and this is what the descriptions are.

We could also ask @John_Marlow aka Chris. She’s done quite a bit of lasering fabric as well.

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You can laser that. You will likely lose about 1/32" on each edge because the fabric will cauterize itself. Cut a one inch square as a test to see how much you lose. IIWM, I’d run the test with the pile facing down and see how that looks. And like @AmeliaG points out … if you’re cutting from the back (i.e. pile side down), you’ll want to flip your pattern (unless it’s just rectangles in which case it shouldn’t matter if you flip it).

How do you plan to affix it to the box?

Thank you for that info. As far as affixing to the inside of the box I have fabric glue to which seems to hold but might bleed through the fabric. If there is a type of material similar to double sided tape sheet that would be the next ideal method. If possible I will bring the piece of fabric tomorrow with the dimensions ready for the laser.

IIWM, I’d test your fabric glue first. With the fabric pile, it might not bleed through.

Fabri-Tac is probably the best choice. It shouldn’t bleed through your fabric.

EDIT: I should clarify that Fabric-Tac is a great fabric-to-fabric glue. I’ve never tried it on wood, but with wood being porous it should work. Obviously you should test that. You should probably wipe the wood down with alcohol right before applying the glue, esp. if your wood is dense/oily.

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