I need to dimensionalize some limbs into inch by inch by as long as I can get them up to about 18 inches long.I figured I would ask before I use the wrong piece of equipment and get into trouble.
Yes, but please for the love of the blades do not force them, cutting with the bandsaw is like eating, you let the teeth do the work. Someone shoving an apple into your mouth isn’t going to help you eat it faster, same with bandsaws, let the teeth eat the wood away as you guide it through don’t shove the wood into it
You must use one of the bandsaw sleds (or make one) to stabilize the branches. Otherwise, they will roll and twist, esp on the exit. This will endanger your hand and the blade. Using the sled makes the cuts safer and will also result in a better cut.
There are 2 sleds still by the Laguna that I made for this purpose.
What about the compound miter saw for milled cylindrical objects (for example 3” or 4” diameter wood/resin cylinders?)
I assume the table saw is a no-go for this due to rotational forces introducing danger.
I’m wanting to ensure a perfect 90 degree cut on each end of said cylinder.
Different use case, but same conceptual problem.
I would suggest the bandsaw and a miter gauge. You can use the miter gauge in the t-track slots and be able to get your desired result.
Thanks! I’ll give it a shot.
I’ll claim all credit if it works and no blame if it doesn’t lol. But seriously I would feel much more comfortable cutting with the miter gauge on the band saw then trying to keep it safe of the miter saw.
Scott - 3" is close to the max that you’ll get on the mitersaw anyway…you’ll have to take care of the rotational tendency, whether you use the bandsaw or the miter saw…
The adage I have heard is that you shouldn’t cut round things with round blades. The thinking being that the round blade will encourage the round thing to spin causing the round thing to exit the saw towards your face with great force. The ideal tool for a very accurate round cut would be the bandsaw with a cross cut sled and a wedge to hold the round thing in place securely. Here is a video that shows the why (wait for it…) and the how if you want to make a heavy duty one. But I’d suggest making a smaller one that just rides on the saw table like Gorman has made. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvwC9UmkhDA
I assume you are building a cylinder out of flat pieces to then turn.
As other Ryan says, another option is a sled for the tablesaw. Much easier to secure small pieces and have consistent angles. Slightly cleaner cut that a bandsaw.
I cast a 1’ long, 3” diameter piece of cholla cactus into a resin cylinder 3.5” - 4” in diameter. I want to cut the ends off at a solid 90 degrees so I can turn it on the big lathe back down to a 3” diameter.
Cool, resin and cholla. You have to post pics of the when done!!
@Scott_Blevins then i believe the table saw sled. One of the ones we have already should work.
Or the Bandsaw with a miter and clean it up on the vertical sander. Bandsaw being less* intimidating.
*edited to fix auto-crrpt.
Anyone who needs to learn about bandsaws should buy a book by Mark Duginske called the Bandsaw Handbook. Thriftbooks has it and they have free shipping on any purchases over 10 dollars.
I built a jig myself for cutting logs and if you don’t use the jig you are asking for big trouble. The best thing that will happen if not is you will ruin the blade.
I have this book. I remember the great tips on tuning. I should re-read it, and the Space should get a couple of copies.
I was in today playing and saw the two new bandsaws.
It is good to have rich friends. LOL.
With more time I am planning on gearing up my business and getting
to the space more and doing the things I have planned for years.
Time to make stuff and have fun. I am not committing myself to a significant
other any time in the near future.
2100 Bowling Green
Denton, TX 76201
“The only good sense is one of humor, without it all the others are worthless.” JCW
If you make your own bandsaw sled (just a couple of boards - not much to it) you can also use brass screws to attach the branches to the sled to stabilize it while cutting.
Use your own sled because screws will slightly damage it.
Use brass screws - on the off chance the blade hits a screw it won’t ruin the blade.
I’d say no because the amount of blades that have teeth that have literally been ground flat, hardened steel ground flat means there’s a bunch of people who don’t know how to use it correctly so take woodshop 102, that class teaches you how to use it and procced from there