I broke the 6-32 tap in this set. Let me know what I owe to replace it.
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it happens. taps are very susceptible to breaking. I’ll get more on the next order round.
the questions to ask yourself are:
- did you use enough oil?
- did you use the correct drill per the chart?
- if it was hand tapped - what did you do to make sure it was straight as it went into the hole.
#3 is the biggest killer.
Regards,
Nick
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#4 - did you periodically back it out part way to clear the chips? Also a big killer.
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Nick - Is there a trick to keeping it straight? A jig or something? That’s always my biggest problem.
Thanks,
Phil
If your part fits we have a tool on the cart to the right of the lathe that helps keep taps straight. It’s not too difficult to take a good look at and imagine how it’s supposed to work.
If it fits on the drill press or Bridgeport there is a spring loaded live center to keep it straight
In case it’s not clear-- secure the workpiece in a good vise such that the drill press’ axis is perpendicular to the plane at which it was drilled. Use the live center (spring-loaded pointed pin) to apply pressure to the indent in the back of the tap as you start tapping. It will keep it straight.
For tapping hard material where only nominal pull out resistance is needed, the majority of situations, I found that using a drill size slightly larger than the chart greatly reduces the tapping torque, yet yields very sufficient pull out resistance. For example, #4-40 tap requires a .089 inch drill per chart but using a 3/32nds, .093 inch end mill or drill works very well for most situations - enough thread over lap, though less. This combined with all of the above rarely results in a broken tap. Faster and easier too.