I can’t imagine you don’t have your favorite technique for “breaking into” sealed boxes, e.g. laptop power supplies.
I am thinking I may have one to crack open, and it’s fairly new, so it’s all glued, with “no customer serviceable parts inside”…
Of course, I’ll plan to buy a new one, but now that it’s stopped ticking, I’m kind of dying to know why and/or make it tick again, but my experience with cracking these things open tends to mimic getting them our of their original clamshell; never going back together.
So, advice/techniques for NOT destroying the protective outer shell whilst attempting surgery on the squishy inner bits appreciated.
PS also, not destroying any of MY squishy bits appreciated, as well. Superficial cuts and abrasions acceptable; nothing requiring bandages or stitches, please!
Pictures?
First, peel any stickers off. Feel around for any dimples that can hide screws.
Look for seams, especially around where the cables go in. Then use plastic putty knives, guitar picks and so on to pry open at the seams.
If it’s newer, It could be fully welded closed, in which case you’d need more destructive techniques. An oscillating tool with something like a tile cutting bit could get through the plastic with minimal damage to the innards, but would remove quite a kerf you’d have to replace when you put it all back together.
If they are not screwed together, I’ll use a small ball peen hammer to hit the welds with. Patience is key here. You can eventually crack the welds apart and get to the insides to do the repair.
I’ve done this on laptop power supplies, power supplies for old Colecovision game consoles, and many more over the years.
If the seams are welded plastic then I would try putting the power supply module in a large vise. By gently squeezing the vise sometimes the seams will just pop open. Also while in the vise it will make it easier to use an Exacto knife to help break open the seam.
Spodging tools are also useful: stiff plastic spatulas used for prying panels without scratching. Also useful for accessing mobile phone and tablet innards.
I’d start with YouTube video for that manufacturer laptop power supply repair. Even if model is of a few digits, they may expose the secret sauce, or even the 11 herbs and spices.
Also, I’ve been throigh this having lost one before. The replacement supply may cost as much as used laptop!
However, I have also noticed this: there is usually only one voltage supplied at the rated current given on the lining of the unit. I just looked at my Toshiba one and it was 19V at 2.37 A. So with that, if you have the plug, any generic supply That can put out that voltage with sufficient current could be spliced in.
It’s easier if you can open it to get to the solder joints. Many of these have coaxial cable inside which makes splicing difficult and ugly.