BMW e36 Rear Upper Control Arm Inner Bushing

Automotive
#1

I need to replace both of the upper rear control arm bushings on an e36. I have an RTAB bushing removal kit (using the classic screw-a-tool method), but it does not have a tool in there of adequate OD to serve as the “screw” or “press” side of the operation. Stupid steel outer collar. I haven’t found a socket or piece of scrap in my pile at home that is the correct size – has anyone else at DMS done this particular job and know if we have a socket or something in the collection that’s the correct size? My rough measurements indicate that it needs to be about 38mm ID and not less than 40mm for the inner lip on the “press” side of the tool. The other side can just be a 27mm socket…

I’ll probably just wander over there tomorrow to see, just wondering if anybody knows anything.

I guess worst case I can just lathe down some tube that I have to make the tool. Cheers.

#2

I’ll look in my various hub/bearing puller kits at home tonight after work.

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#3

Thanks. This has got to be about the last job I’ve never done before on an e36. Other than rebuild the diff. From watching plenty of videos, I think I just need a bigger selection of random large sockets and eventually I’ll stumble on one that will work, maybe. The arm itself appears to be too flimsy to handle pressing it out without wrecking the arm itself. Although I guess I could weld up a fixture for that if worst comes to worst…

#4

I was delayed due to a car crash yesterday with my wife no injuries
i do have a large selection a large sockets but it will be the weekend before I get to them if you can wait.

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#5

Sorry about the crash but glad no injuries.

We were able to get it done with a 24mm impact socket as the pressing device and other parts from the RTAB kit that I bought off Amazon.

Also, if anyone stumbles on this later, the arbor press is a fantastic way to press in both the upper inner control arm bearings and the outer control arm bearings on the rear trailing arm/wheel knuckle. It is fiddly, but with the arbor press we didn’t wreck any bearings by pushing them too hard/too fast while not perfectly parallel. I’ve had that problem with hydraulic (or air-over-hydraulic) presses before – you can impart more force more quickly and not notice that something’s going amiss.

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#6

Sorry I missed this post. I’ve done the same job with an e30 which has a similar suspension design. Arbor press is absolutely the way to go. I normally mention that to folks when doing the lift training, only use the hydraulic press if you have to, much easier to feel what’s going on when you’re applying force by hand.

We also have metric sockets up to… 38mm I think? so I’m sure there’s something you could use, they’re toward the back of the drawer.

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