Good suggestions. I have a lot to learn.
Just got back from the range. It’s a rental:
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Here is a build I considering. It is honestly a bit crazy, but I like crazy.
Nick’s AR15 build:
Upper, Lower and Forend:
BDR-15 3G with H7M 16.3 Handguard
Color: Naked (white) Matte Finish
Price: $850.00
http://f-1firearms.com/bdr-15-chassis/
Trigger Group:
Calvin Elite Timney Trigger
Price: 299.95
https://www.timneytriggers.com/shop/AR-15-Calvin-Elite--P85.aspx
Pistol Grip:
ERGO TACTICAL DELUXE GRIP – SUREGRIP™
Color: Black
Price: 43.50
http://ergogrips.net/shop/ergo-tactical-deluxe-grip/
Butt Stock:
MOE® SL-S™ CARBINE STOCK – MIL-SPEC
Color: Black
Price: 79.95
Barrel:
Rainier Arms UltraMatch .223 Wylde Rifle Fluted Varmint Barrel - 22
Twist: 1:8
Chamber: 223 Wyld
Gas System: Rifle Length
Finish: Stainless
Price: 394.73
https://www.rainierarms.com/rainier-arms-ultramatch-223-wylde-rifle-fluted-varmint-barrel-22/
Buffer Tube Assembly:
BRAVO COMPANY - AR-15/M16 MIL-SPEC BUFFER TUBE ASSEMBLY
Color: Black
Price: 57.99
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/buffer-tube-parts/buffer-tubes/ar-15-m16-mil-spec-buffer-tube-assembly-prod64580.aspx
Gas Block:
CMT Tact J.A.G. Gas Block - .875
Color: Black
Price: 22.25
https://www.rainierarms.com/cmt-tact-j-a-g-gas-block/
Gas Tube:
Gas Tube- Rifle
Finish: Stainless
Price: 13.00
https://www.rainierarms.com/gas-tube-9682/
Selector:
Seekins Precision Safety Selector Kit
Color: Red
Price: 37.99
https://www.rainierarms.com/seekins-precision-safety-selector-kit/
Bolt Carrier Group:
Phase 5 M16 Electroless Nickel Complete Bolt Carrier Group
Finish Nickle
Price: 199.99
Estimated total cost: $1999.35
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Alright, I gotta be that guy… you’re putting all that shiny and nice stuff on a bench gun and then slapping a cheap $50 plastic carbine stock on it?
If it’s gotta be magpul, why not a PRS or UBR?
Also, FYI, the chamber in that Rainer is annoying as crap. It’s ammo picky as hell if you’re looking for accuracy. Finicky is the best way to describe it. If you’re willing to take the time to work up loads for it and shoot hand loads exclusively, it may be a good match for you, but if you want something that shoots commercial match or ball, I’d pick something else.
Lets not be that guy that gives people a hard time over their builds. Rather, lets support the builds and try to make them better. This is Adult lego we can have it our way. 
I posted this build because it has a lot of parts I’m excited to work with. At the same time I wanted to list a full build as an example for others so they could follow along and see all the parts needed and possibly post their build ideas. It isn’t a perfect on purpose, I want suggestions to make it better. We need to teach the sources for parts, reasoning behind decisions and most of all I don’t want to shame anyone for their wants. Lets build on everyone’s excitement! and make this a really fun thread.
So lets start talking about suggestions and why I chose the parts I did. I’m building a FUN rifle for me.
So the parts I’m excited about:
- F1 Lower, Upper, and Forend - I’ve watched this group and I follow demolition ranch. I love the look of this and I can get it in white (Naked) which lets me match some of the looks of my Custom Match 308 Long Range Rifle.
- WYLD 223 chambered Long Barrel - I’ve had this chamber suggested by some of my competition shooter friends, because it handles high pressure 556 ammo pretty well while also allowing me to hand loan very accurate rounds. I also want a long barrel because I enjoy accurate long range rifles. I will shoot this rifle where and however I like, but it won’t be a competition rifle. This is because the only competition it would work in is probably bench and my 308 would be a better option for that. But, I’m not set in stone on the barrel I’m open to other suggestions. I would like to stick with stainless as that matches my 308.
- Calvin Elite Trigger - I’m not a fan of 5+ pound triggers unless they are ultra short action and crisp like breaking a glass rod. I chose the calvin because it ultra light 1.5 pound, but it also has this special feature of a 5 pound reset spring. It is a pleasing trigger to pull with a short take up and a snap and flick sensation when firing. So I’m excited to have it. It also inspire the red accent in the selector.
Items I’m not so hot on:
- Bolt Carrier Group - I’m really just looking for a good bolt carrier group in a nickel or stainless finish, I’m willing to save some money on this.
- Gas Block - I would like to find one in stainless, low profile and none adjustable. Willing to save some money on this as well.
- Pistol Grip - I’m not completely sold on this one yet, I want a big and bulbous grip. I like grips that don’t tempt you to grip with the thumb.
- Butt Stock - Not sold on this stock either. an adjustable cheek stock may be in the cards. I’d love to find one that better follows the look of the Upper lower and forend.
Teaser, If I’m lucky I’ll post a picture tomorrow of my completed 308. It has been months in the making and I’m very excited!
Wylde is an interesting chamber, but you have to remember, it’s a compromise. If accuracy is your only goal, get a .223 chambered barrel and only shoot .223 out of it. Given that this is going to be a range toy, you don’t need to worry about running 5.56 through it, so go with .223.
Longer barrels don’t necessarily increase accuracy, and in come cases, decrease accuracy. You need to match your barrel length to the loads you’re going to shoot. The .223 / 5.56 was designed from the ground up to shoot out of an 18" to 20" barrel. Bullet weight, rifling twist, and powder choice all matter.
There are plenty of 16" barrels out there that are more accurate than the vast majority of 20"+ barrels, particularly 22" barrels.
You might find this interesting:
I mean, to some extent sure, but due to the design of the upper and lower, this isn’t a rifle that you’ve ever going to use to bang around in the field, or even in a slightly dusty environment. It’s rather squarely in the realm of range toy.
If your goal is just a stainless fluted barrel that’s accurate, there are plenty of options.
https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPSM223-18M8R
That one seems expensive, but comes with a matched, headspaced bolt.
This one is black, not stainless, but is a fantastic barrel:
I still maintain all BCGs from quality manufacturers are the same. Check the staking on the gas key, restake if necessary.
Not sure what none adjustable means, but I always suggest gas blocks that use set screws, and that you machine a flat surface under the gas hole for the screws to sit on. Clamp on gas blocks are the devil and should be avoided at all costs.
Does that mean big palm swell or no palm swell?
This is my personal favorite:
https://www.hogueinc.com/ar-15-m-16-rubber-grip-beavertail-with-finger-grooves-black
https://www.fab-defense.com/en/category-pistol-grips/id-269/rubberized-ergonomic-m4-pistol-grip.html
So, I’ve already mentioned the UBR and PRS.
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Thanks for the response. I read the this article and it doesn’t support the broader statement you were making. The reason longer barrels are often more accurate is that they allow the bullet more time to accelerate. This fact leads to faster bullet speeds and flatter trajectories to my knowledge. The article linked supports this, the reason that the test in the article showed a loss of bullet speed after a 20 inch barrel length was that the cartridge load was built for that length. So effectively after 20 inches of barrel, the gun powder had completely burned and no longer accelerated the bullet leaving the last few inches of barrel as solely friction against the bullet. This is also supported by the bore pressure graph in the article. Longer barrels allow for higher bullet speeds with properly loaded cartridges. Thanks for sharing the article, it was very interesting, especially with the statement of shorter barrels being more accurate challenging my understand of rifles.
Thanks for the additional barrel options though, 18 inches is tempting in the looks and cost department.
Why WYLDE? I want to let people shoot my AR15, but I don’t want to have to let them shoot all expensive precision loads. The fact that the WYLDE allows me to let them shoot walmart special 556 without risk of damage is a plus for me, though it means I will be working with a less known cartridge than the standard 223.
This is surely a rifle I will bang around in a field, the dust walking around in a field won’t stop this gun. That said, I’m not building a “Battle Rifle.” I can’t force myself to keep any of my guns dirty, I’m to excited for the opportunity to jump in and clean them. That is the reason I can’t teach the gun cleaning class, my guns are all clean. But, my house is a different story. 
My knowledge and research has proven this much the same as well. When you start talking about Bolt Carrier Groups most comments seem to be based on voodoo rather than facts.
Gas Block, “None adjustable” was a typo, I meant Non-adjustable, as tuning an adjustable gas block is something I don’t know how to do.
Love the Armalite option!!!
Pistol Grip, looking for a large palm swell with right hand preference. Not super excited about hogue, the grips feel really nice with the ultra soft rubber, but I kind of want a stiffer option. I’m not sure if the grip I found originally was super squishy?
Butt stock, You knocked it out of the park on these. I want them all!
But these 2 are the leaders for me.
Leaning towards the second option, having an extra 15 oz on the tail might be a plus for gun balance.
Thanks @bknapp I really appreciate the effort. I can tell you really put some time into this and found some amazing parts!
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You bet man. Remember, I’m the 07/02. We’ve done 500+ custom ARs over the years. If you can describe the kind of part you’re looking for, if it exists, I likely know about it. I’m that sucker for punishment that hits up SHOT every year and spends most of his time in the downstairs and “emerging” areas.
Eeeehhhhhhhhhh… That scalloped lightweight design, while looking exceptionally cool, doesn’t lead to tolerating dirt in the least. Or dust. Or really anything.
Also, fair warning, that rifle is gassy as a mofo. It won’t be terribly comfortable to shoot. Lots of blowback.
This is one of those replies that leads into hours of discussion, but it’s all about powder choice. If you’re shooting a shorter barrel, you need a faster burning powder with more pressure. This accelerates the round faster, which leads to less length in the barrel. Remember, your goal for max velocity (which is NOT the same thing as max accuracy) is for the powder to complete the burn when the bullet is about 2" from the end of the barrel.
But then we get into the discussion of twist rates and bullet weights, where you need to match those two things together. One of the complaints with the Rainer Arms barrels is that the 1 in 8 twist doesn’t lead to enough stabilization with lighter (55gr) bullets. You really need to be shooting 62+gr rounds to stabilize completely. BUT, 62+ grain rounds are expensive…
And on and on we go…
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For those still following this post and looking for parts, Damage Industries is one of my favorite manufacturers, and they’ve got 40% off store-wide right now.
They’re great for parts kits and some interesting offers.
http://damageindustriesllc.com/store/index.php
Particularly, I LOVE this product:
http://damageindustriesllc.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=409
It’s a great recoil spring, but they do a proprietary plastic coating that makes it MUCH quieter. Same end result as the JP Enterprises silent captured recoil spring unit, but it’s $8 as opposed to $170.
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Yeah, I’ve been thinking about that as well with everything open, Maybe I should go with a piston option, keeping the gas further away from the face?
Going to a piston would certainly help, but you’re still going to get a lot of gas back to the face. It’s just the nature of that scalloped receiver.
I know we have a class coming up for AR15 assembly, but I’m not seeing any tools in Hatcher’s.
I was looking for:
Vise blocks - upper/lower
Armorer’s wrench
Roll pin punches
Roll pin starter punches
Small hammer
General tools can come from workshop:
torque wrench in automotive
Allen wrenches and screwdrivers in general workshop tools
I know that the right pliers with electrical tape can work in place of the hammer & punches, but I just wanted to see what we have.
Hatcher’s currently doesn’t have that tooling. Steven will bring most of the tooling needed to the Ar15 class. We would love to purchase some of this tooling in the future, but requires money. The committee is working hard to get teachers so we can fund these kinds of purchases. So please help if you are well versed enough to teach a class.