Anybody experienced and/or know of any traditional options for finishing fine metalwork?

I’ve been metal crafting lately and wanted to know if anybody knows of traditional ways to finish metalwork. I’m completely moving away from any paint/powdercoat/clear for this work.

Currently building a fireplace surround and then a stairway steel panels in my design.

I’m looking for a method that can inhibit rust and only need light maintenance.

For the fireplace surround and hearth, I’m looking for that dark brown/black finish that is rich, lustrous, colorful and semi-transparent finish that highlights the character and elegance of the metal starting at the very surface of the material. I was told it’s an oil and heat process, but I am unfamiliar with it.

Jewelling!
Class coming soon.

engine_tanker_canopy

How about using COR-TEN steel ?

natural rust finish, no need from painting and self healing…

I’ve not seen it used indoors tho…

The jeweling is really nice. But I’m interested in a different look. The more brownish/black translucent matte finish I’ve seen.

I’m using mild steel only either CR, HR or P&O.

Express Brown #2?

http://www.markleesupplies.com/products.html

Or Plum Brown?

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Metal-Finishing/Plum-Brown™-Barrel-Finish.aspx

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Yes, thanks for the links. I’ve looked into the chemical blueing methods and am interested in trying them out too. With these methods, I think they are more of a stain process and need to be oiled to keep rust off. I really like the Plum Brown/Black color of steel.

What I’m looking for is more traditional options that provide a level of rust prevention without oiling them constantly. The little research I’ve done, seems to indicate a heat and oil process that carmalizes the oil into the steel to provide a more resistance to rusting than a topical oil application after blueing.

Then you may be thinking of parkerizing.

However, those use manganese and zinc so take care in the use of these methods.

Parkerizing is an interesting solution and one I’d like to try, but most of these pieces I’m making are huge compared to a gun or smaller parts. I don’t have the capability or desire of creating a huge tub of phosphoric acid.

The search continues.

https://www.birchwoodtechnologies.com/News/7277A.html
They do recommend a clearcoat to protect the look…

Thanks for that. I’m interested in these modern chemical treatments and this one looks nice.

For this current project, which will be indoors, I’m looking at more traditional methods. In searching, I found a metalwork fabricator in Tulsa who recommends a blend of linseed oil and heat to get the finish I’m looking for. I’ve got steel sheet laying around, I think I just need to try it out and see how it goes.

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Cool.
Another log for that fire…
https://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=37
and a case of it being used

Jump to about 9:54 to see it being applied.

Please post pics of your product, procedure, and results!
:slight_smile:

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Nice. I like his video! I like that cabinet he made.
Finish looks simple. I’ll have to try it out.

I’m looking for this kind of finish:
8314209E-CE72-4B7D-B3FC-06D0E3D75608
Here is what the fabricator said about the process;

The scroll on the left was finished with Johnson’s Paste Wax and has a golden tint to the final finish while the scroll on the right was finished using ebony Briwax and the result was jet black. Both scrolls were clear waxed after the steel was burnished to reveal some of the silver tones. It is possible to burnish the steel more to achieve a brighter silver result.

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That looks like standard mill scale from hot rolled with a light wire wheel and clear coat.

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Yes on the scrolls, he did hammer in some of the mill scale for that uneven look. Prior to waxing it though, he used a linseed and tung oil blend on it after heating it. Not hot enough to burn it but enough to carmelize it. Then hit it with a wire brush. Apparently this fills those microscopic holes in metal to give it a level of protection. Then a final burnishing and waxing.

Apparently it needs to be re-waxed every couple of years or so, but is considered fairly rust resistant.

I’m looking to move away completely from using any paint, powder or clear to seal the steel for this fine metalwork I’m doing.

I was going to recommend http://www.sculptnouveau.com/ However, JAST beat me to the punch! Industrial Metal Supply in Phoenix, AZ carries this product and had an extensive sample display. Top notch effects!

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@jast and @Will1

Sculpt Noeveau looks promising as it has the patnas I want and can be applied cold or hot. Plus they sell a metal wax.

I’m going to have to try different methods and see what works best for some of this metalwork I’m doing.

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I highly recommend Joe @ Top Koat Powder Coating @110 Industrial Dr, Kennedale, TX 76060. I have been a long term customer. Joe does excellent work at a very reasonable price and uses top quality powders. Outgassing is always a problem with sand castings…especially non-ferrous. However, Tiger Drylac offers an additive to mitigate this problem, which we used very successfully on the restoration of an 70 yr old piece of industrial machinery.

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Thanks for the referral. I do powdercoat some things but not this current metalwork I’m doing.

So right now, I’m not interested in using paint, powder or clear of any kind for my steel finishing with the fine metalworking I’m doing. I’m wanting to stick with only traditional steel finishes. I want to try the heat and oil carmelizing method and see how that works for me.