Advice from the experts

Off Topic
#1

I came home this evening to news from my wife that we have an a/c problem. Apparently, during the past few days the condensation drain for one of my a/c units has become clogged because now the unit has begun to overflow into the overflow pan located beneath the evaporator coil.

The unit still puts out cold air. It does rattle considerably more than it did a few days ago though. I tried to blow out the main drain pvc pipe as suggested by several Google articles and it seemed to help, but now it is dripping into the pan again.

I plan to call a bonafide repair technician, but I wondered if the DMS experts had any other DIY advice first.
Also, if you have a great a/c company to call for service in North Carrollton I’d be interested in their contact info, too.

#2

As part of yearly A/C system maintenance, I pour a couple of ounces of bleach into the condensation drain holes. This help algae and other “live” stuff buildup, preventing clogs over time. This won’t help you now that clog is there, and might not have prevented whatever the current problem is, but it’s good maintenance advice for the future.

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#3

We’ve been very pleased with http://boonesac.com/. My only complaint (if it can be called a complaint) is that the technicians have left a few hand-tools behind. Eventually they come to collect them.

Running diluted bleach through the overflow once a month has kept ours from clogging.

#4

Tried a fish tape yet?

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#5

Blowing it out or sucking it out either with compressed air or a shop vac. Be forwarned though, if you blow it out cover the vent. Otherwise this might happen.

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#6

Is your drain line a 1/2" or bigger?

Do you know where it drains to? Outside or into your sewer?

If it goes outside, use this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-50-ft-Drain-Auger-BC30500/100534792

If it goes into the sewer, get a plumber.

#7

That happened at our old house twice over the 13 years we lived there. I would hold a cork over the open end and use a blow nozzle and cork on the other to force compressed air down the line and blow that crap out. You can hear it moving down the line and out… follow that with a cup of bleach.

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#8

I second the shop vac method. That had worked well for me in the past. Then bleach it…

#9

I had a really good experience with Kings of Comfort if you are looking for recs.

#10

Thanks everyone for the advice. The drain is plumbed to the sink in the master bath. The drain is about 3/4 of an inch PVC. I’m going to try to blow it out tomorrow. I think I have a fish tape, too, but I don’t think it will work since there are some 90 degree elbows in the pipe. These are probably where the clog is I’d imagine, too.

I’ll put bleach in it once I get it unclogged. I like the idea of this not happening again. If I’m unsuccessful tomorrow, I’ll engage a professional on Monday.

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#11

Thank you for the recommendations for help, too. I love to patronize businesses that do a good job.

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#12

Almost all houses will drain to the sanitary. The emergency pan goes to outside or to above the bathtub/shower.

Most service guys will use one of these. It takes a CO2 cartridge to blow it out. Don’t waste your money with the snake, it won’t make the 90’s.

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#13

Thanks Tim, I ordered one of these and the requisite CO2 cartridges from Amazon. They should be here tomorrow or Monday. If it works great, if not then I’m only out $50 :grinning:

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#14

You can go in the Morning to a local supply house if you would care to. The stock them & shouldn’t have a problem selling that to you. United Refrigeration in Dallas is open until noon. Their address is 2840 Virgo Ln, Dallas, TX 75229
Or I tell you what I just got called in & I can drop mine off at the space in my storage bin for you to borrow if you would rather do that.

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#15

@coloneldan another source of draining into the drip tray may be the unit freezing. This can sometimes happen because filters in your system are clogged and needing replacement. This happened at my house last summer and happens at DMS nearly weekly.

#16

I finally called an expert out to look at the unit. He put gauges on the unit and told me it is about 50% low on refrigerant. R22, which of course, is not available any more except by recycling it. I’m faced with replacing the coil and the condenser or putting 5 lbs of refrigerant in and it leaking out again.

I’ll get a quote from them for another unit and then get a couple of competitive quotes. Thankfully, I have three units in the house and we won’t be too terribly hot. Gotta get it fixed before summer though or we will.

Thanks for everyone’s help.

4 Likes
#17

I would recommend replacing the unit instead of just the coil and condenser. A unit using R22 is old enough that a new one will be significantly more efficient.

#18

In 2009 I replaced my compressor, which I gather was the last year that R22 units were sold. At the time I contemplated asking for a firm option on an R22 recharge.

I may soon wish that I had : I will likely need to replace the furnace this year, which may necessitate removal of the refrigerant coils and a system recharge.

#19

I believe this to be true also. I’m just going to have to get some different quotes as it looks like it is going to be $2K-$3k for a new 3 ton unit.

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#20

2-3k is cheap for a full new unit. The enthalpy per lb is better with 410a (replacement for 22 albeit not a drop in) There is talks about 410a being phased out as well. The same about 134a, it’s trying to be phased out.