Adhesive for Wood + Ceramic?

Hello there!

I’ve seen some cool pictures online of ceramic cheese/bread boards with wooden handles or ends (pics below). These look so cool and I’d love to make one. I’m trying to figure out what the best glue would be to make sure it doesn’t break when being picked up or moved around in the kitchen. Any ideas??

@Team_Ceramics Ceramic%3Awood

Super Glue?

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  1. Are you sure that’s ceramic and not stone? The subtle mottling looks more like stone veins, rather than a glaze effect.

  2. Not sure. I’d be inclined to use E6000, or a good 2-part epoxy. Actually, if I were making this, I’d do kind of a L joint, so there’s wood under the ceramic. While I use super-glue to repair broken parts, I’m not sure that’s the best thing to use to join to wood.


I’ve done these with Corian in the past instead of ceramic, works great. I’ll have to look at my notes to recall what I used for glue, but I suspect it was just 5 minute epoxy.


I 2nd the epoxy and the use of a L joint.
Good luck. looks lilke a fun project.


One thing to consider, as you know, wood shrinks/expands and glueing the large flat rigid thing to it, just be aware some glues are more flexible later, some not. It can be challenging to find the right glue for long term use. Possible, but not just anything works.

FWIW, my second-hand info comes listening for years to two different wood artists on BOTH sides of me at the renfair grouse about various glue/rigid object issues.

One is glueing mirrors in wood hand-mirrors and having to periodically repair them after a few years because of the glue (he kinda got sick of that and quit making them).

The other does walking staffs with stones and crystals. It took him a lot of trial and error over the years to find one that held for years, shock of handling, wood expansion/contraction. He did find one eventually.

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Yep. 5 minute epoxy is what I used.


I believe both of the images shown have the glue joint oriented along edge grain. Wood moves a significant amount across the grain, but very little with the grain. Orienting it such will improve the joint quality significantly.


I am guessing that is resin. if you need a suggestion Titebond III is what I use when doing anything with wood.

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Thank you all so much! All very helpful information!!!

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Hey Allie, That is marble. I have a couple pieces of that color stone. Would you like one?


I recommend a good 2 part expoxy just like the rest of the folks here. The L joint or something similar is also a great idea.

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Hey Jon! It does look like marble in the pictures. I figured I’d start with ceramic since it’s inexpensive and if it breaks I won’t be heartbroken. I would love to work with marble eventually when I’m more of a pro!!!

Where do you get your marble? Is it as expensive as it sounds?

I wonder about this as well. The other question I have is how difficult is it to work with marble? Shaping seems to be done with abrasive power tools, ideally with water (or carved with hammer and chisel).

Would Corian and other synthetics be an option? Easier to shape.

Re glue ups- I would scuff the surface for better adhesion. For ceramics, I would esp scratch up/through the glaze. I haven’t tested it, but that glossy glass surface doesn’t seem like the best to glue to.

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Well, if you’re producing the ceramic, you don’t glaze the edge that you’re gluing.


I don’t know anything about ceramics, but Corian works awesome. Easily machinable, very durable.

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I’ve bought my stone at Marty usually ships a pallet down a couple times a year. You pay by the pound so it could be expensive or not. But I would recommend just buying a piece of marble tile from Home Depot or one of those places to start off with. Marble is usually very easy to work with. I just use a wood saw for most of my work. No water or anything fancy. A saw, a chisel and sandpaper is all I need. Granite, that’s a different story.

Taken from FB this is suppose to be at Walmart.

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If you find it get me a 1 please. I pay you back.