A/C repair recommendations

Off Topic
#1

It is that time of year when you turn on the heat and find out that you have an issue with one of your heating units. I have three units in the house and one of the air handling units in the attic has failed. The fan squirrel cage separated from the fan motor. It made a heck of a racket so I turned if off and cut the gas from the unit.

I’ve tried to find parts for the unit but can’t seem to find any locally. I’ve also had a recent bad experience with my previous repair guy. (My exterior unit failed during the summer) The house is getting older, I built it new in 1992, and I guess stuff is just wearing out.

Does anyone have a local source for A/C parts or can you recommend a local A/C repair company?

The model number is below if that makes a difference:

IMG_0497 (1).JPG2016×1512 1.05 MB

Thanks for any recommendations you might have.

#2

I can get you a guy his great

#3

That would be awesome! You can email me at [email protected].

#4

I can recommend… Boone’s Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.

I have no idea if they can help with your specific unit but, at least based on my experience, they are worth calling.

Been there. Took about a week for them (not Boone obviously; one of the previous schmucks) to just show up.

The first repair company we had after moving to Dallas fed the system three compressors within three months. Good times.

#5

image.jpeg2448×3264 861 KB

Call talk to Walter. Tell him Jayson sent you

#6

Squirrel cage fans should be pretty easy to find a replacement. Some supply houses will help you out. Worst case you could go to Grainger.

#7

Try Johnson supply on Valwood - They will sell to the public as long as the “john or jane doe” has a pleasant attitude at the counter. They carry just about everything for the HVAC trade.

http://www.johnsonsupply.com/default.aspx?act=directorypage.aspx&Directoryid=111&MenuGroup=__newLocations

#8

Went to Johnson Supply over the weekend. Not too friendly counter help. Store was empty of customers. I brought what I needed into the store, my old fan wheel/squirrel cage, and the guy said we can’t help you. I went to Dallas HVAC Supply the guy went back into his warehouse and got me a wheel, a motor and a capacitor. Installed it that afternoon.

3 Likes
#9

Johnson used to be more helpful, to end users, but apparently either their legal or insurance people at HD have put the end to that. Last time I was in they had just obtained a memo for corporate, and they were requiring texas contractor ID number, or EPA 608 cert number for any sales.

#10

I buy parts online, or from:
American Appliance Parts
Address: 1265 W Hurst Blvd, Hurst, TX 76053
Phone:(817) 284-1886

They also do service.

#11

This is an old thread and I’m sorry for reviving it, but I thought I’d update you on this fan install I did back in 2015. Here it is a year and a half later and the fan stopped working today. Turned out to be a dead capacitor and thanks to the folks at Dallas HVAC I replaced the 10 mfd capacitor for $12 and I’m back in the cool. Took all of 2 hours including the trip to pick up the cap.

The real thanks though go to all of you at DMS who share your expertise and especially those who provided help in this thread. One of the best aspects of DMS is the incredible amount of knowledge DMS members have and more importantly are willing to share. Thanks all!

7 Likes
#12

If the system killed a cap in a couple years, you may want to make sure you’re changing filters regularly, and the intake(s) are sufficiently sized. Also, make sure you are doing routine maintenance.

Caps will expand and die if they’re under load.

Just a friendly suggestion.

#14

True but most small tonnage three phase use condenser fans that are single phase, take for instance our AC at the space.

1 Like
#15

I’m curious about the capacitance/ratings on capacitors for AC motor starts. Here are my questions?

  1. The capacitor that came off of the fan was 10 micro-farads 440v +/-5%. The one I replaced it with is 10 micro-farads 370/440v +/-6%. Is the +/- critical in this application? What application would it be critical?
  2. Would a higher capacitance affect the starting capability say 15mfd?
  3. This was a 10mfd 370/440v capacitor? Why is the voltage different than the voltage of the circuit which I presume is 120v RMS?
  4. Would any type of capacitor with the same rating work?

I know there are probably pretty simple questions I could google, but I thought I’d ask the experts. Thanks.

1 Like
#16

The rating rule of thumb is about 10% up or down in micro-farads.

Yes, the higher the capacitance actually makes it easier to start. I believe it also changes the efficiency but can’t say with 100% certainty.

You can go up in the voltage rating not down. If you go down you exceed the potential difference that the cap is rated for.

As long as you stay within the +/- 10% micro-farads and go up voltage, you will be fine. Even the 10%, there is a little more give. Preferably I would go up in microfarad instead of down. If it were a 25 at 370 volts, & I had the choice between 20 at 440 or 30 at 440. I would go with the 30.

Mostly we consider anything over 50 microfarad a start cap, however there are exceptions. Trane likes to use about 85 microfarad caps.

Most start caps are round & black, I will caution anyone on this, they hold their charge well. These style are almost always used in capacitor start capacitor run motors. These would be the compressors since they require the high torque to start.

It’s not everything to know but some of the rules of thumb we go by.

4 Likes
#17

Thank you for the excellent answers. You are a huge asset to DMS and to its members!!

1 Like
#18

I have seen claims that start caps are not rated for continuous use like motor run caps, and may fail prematurely if pressed into run service.

The difference is that the run cap is always passing current, while the start cap is on a timer or switch and only is in circuit in parallel with the run cap for a few seconds when the motor is first turned on.

It is easy to confuse the two, as a motor that only has a run cap won’t start without it. However, any motor actually has a star cap will also have a run cap. So if you don’t have two caps on one motor, you don’t have a start cap. And HVAC condensers usually have two caps in the relay box, but only one for the fan, and one for the compressor.

1 Like
#19

Correct, if a start cap stays in the circuit too long they will blow. They stink really bad, not quite as bad as a skunk but close. Cloud o smoke.

1 Like
#20

That’s the name of the game…never let the magic smoke out =)