Hi. I am fairly new to Makers Space but loving it. I have pasted a link to something I would like to print as a gift to an architect we work with and have a few questions:
Thanks!
Resin will typically give better details while filament printers will give lower cost.
Slicer will give you an estimate on how much material is used before you print. Can opt for less internal structure to reduce cost.
Scaling would be done in slicer before printing. Yes itâs easy to do, but youâll be sacrificing quality depending how small you want to go.
1st things 1st are you checked out on our printers?
It can be scaled easily but it might not be usable once itâs scaled. The issue is going to be the thickness of spires, walls, and other details. If, for instance, the flying buttresses are 2mm thick in the model and you want to print it at 25% scale, then they would be 0.5mm which would fail in the printing (too thin).
From the photos, though, it doesnât look like a huge model. You might want to just print it at full scale. Consider using the Phrozen - from my calibrated eyeball (haha) it looks like it should fit or need minimal resizing.
Donât pay by the gram to print something this big. Buy a bottle of resin and then it will cost you just what the resin bottle cost.
I had looked this up before and the minimum thickness is .2mm. Note the decimal point before the two.
(Manufacturerâs) Opinions differ.
Every printer/resin combination is different. FormLabs does in fact claim 0.2mm (unsupported vertical wall). Others state the minimum is 0.6mm for vertical walls. Horizontal surfaces are 2x vertical ones. In my experience it also depends on the height of that surface ⌠a 0.2mm wall 1mm high is easy. A 0.2mm wall 2" high is a little more sporting.
And while the flying buttresses might be OK, if itâs a hollow model 1-2 mm wall thickness is a more practical limit. A hollow model with 0.2mm walls may collapse during printing due to the stresses of lifting and swirling the resin.
I happen to have some experience printing down-scaled items and I have not yet achieved what they claim is theoretically possible.
I would be more likely to trust your experience than manufacturersâ possibly exaggerated claims, but 2mm seems to be an awfully thick minimum.
Thatâs strongly geometry-dependent.
Picture a hollow skull. As the top of the skull starts to close in, there is a lot of resin weight that is getting pulled up and down by the build plate and it is trying to deform the portion of the skull that is already formed. Thatâs where the 1-2mm minimum comes in.
But a four-sided box with vertical walls? 0.5 - 1mm are much more likely depending on the height of those walls.
EDIT: Itâs also resin-dependent. I have some Mudz thatâs particularly viscous and will support thinner minimums. I also have some BlueCast Xone that has very low viscosity and itâs like trying to print with water.
Be aware, 3D printing is sloow, whatever you come up with be prepared for a long wait.
John, I have a business owner close to me who needs someone to design and print a jib for use in his airplane interiors business. Are you interested? If so, please send me your phone number.
Thanks for the kind offer but I donât really have the correct skill set for that.
Do you know someone who does at Makespace?
The issue is going to be the structural analysis, not the aesthetics. Your best bet is to go to your original posting about the fixture and add the request for the jib. Sorry I couldnât be more help.
EDIT: Were you asking about a JIG above, or truly a jib? And is this the same request as your other posting?
A jig is what he wants to make. He will use it in woodworking.