I am in need of some A/C repair assistance on my 2019 Kia Sportage and am hoping that we either have the equipment or have someone who can help at DMS.
My factory warranty expired last year - extension was not available and the ac crapped out at less than 1/2 its expected service life.
Kia Service Dept jerked me around, so I went to an independent auto-repair whom I do trust.
They state that the compressor clutch seals failed, which has contaminated the rest of the system. Their estimate calls for compressor, condenser and evaporator expansion valve replacement. System uses 1.25 lbs of R-1234yf. Their estimate is over $2K.
I also think that my fuel consumption is too high, possibly from the bad compressor adding extra load?
It looks like physically replacing the components is quite simple and straight forward. However, I do not have the tools needed to purge, clean and service the system.
The independent garage provided me with a hard copy of the diagnostic procedure and photographed their diagnostic in-work.
Itās like everybody mentioned before we do not have the tooling to recover and recycle refrigerant nor do we have the toolings for 1234YF since itās so newstrong text
The independent garage stated that the system was bone dry. They charged it up and completed a sniffer test, which confirmed no leaks. They attempted to charge it up for eval and determined that the compressor clutch seals had failed. They did a full recovery, so it is purged and empty. So, can I replace the components and then have it charged, or do I need to have a shop complete the eintire project?
Depending on your skills fit and how comfortable you feel you can do the job yourself if itās just replacing parts and or seals. Basically the rule of thumb is as long as your AC system is bone dry you can work on it in the automotive space
This is for reference only/an example as I did not have a VIN:
Screenshot here of the compressor lists (retail from Krazy Kia) is $574, so you should be able to find a NEW one for $350ish that is OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer). DO NOT BUY FROM THE DEALER.
Your BEST cost savings would be to source OEM quality parts and install them yourself, then find a qualified shop of your choice to evacuate and charge the system with the newer more pricey refrigerant. I would suggest replacing the serpentine belt at this time as well.
I stopped at NAPA yesterday. For years they had massive last-Saturday-of-the-month discounts. They recently discontinued that. Additionally, they are not stocking and are unable to get the compressor, which they listed for $755.00. However, they DO have the Condenser @ $265.00 and expansion valve $22.00. These prices reflect Veteran discount.
So I stopped at Autozone. They have the compressor @ 671.99, but not the other parts! This also price also includes Veteranās discount.
So, I am following your advice regarding Rockauto. I will also p.m. you my VIN number.
At Napaās ālist pricesā you can go to Corinth Kia and get factory parts with a veterans discount cheaper than Napa but nowhere close to Rockautoā prices.
Brand names of the parts from Napa, Autozone would be helpful to compare apples to apples - not generic white box store brand āwho knows where it was made or what the failure/return rate isā ā¦
Hey so it sounds like you have some auto AC problems. Few things most gauges will work but need an adapter as r1234yf has left hand threadsā¦ 1) determine what refrigerant your AC takes R-22( for vintage 90s or older) R134a for up to 2014 and r 1234yf for 2014 and older. Your inside door panel or the internet will tell you what your car takes.
with your engine running turn on your ac and open the hood is the compresor spinning? If not most likely a leak, dead compressor or blown fuse.
check fuse also check fuse on the dryer or the relay for wire issues you can test with a multimeter
hook up gauge and see if it has pressure . If low like less than 100 on the high side and 30 on the low just charge it. if no pressure you have a leak most likely but if you have pressure and not cold you most likely have a dead compressor
for leak get a can of the refrigerant with the dye but not the stuff with the fix stuff in it hook it up to the low pressure side of the compressor shake it in and run the ac. Get a black light and find the glow. DO NOT use the duff with AC fix in it.
depending on the leak tighten the fitting replace the hose. If you donāt see where itās leaking could be your condenser or evaporator if still nothing and you added refrigerant test for a pressure increase if no increase troubleshoot the leak.
repair leak pull vacuum and the add back refrigerant to 30-50 low side and high side depends on refrigerant.
If you need to buy refrigerant the epa 609 cert is easy to get and open book takes about an hour and costs 20 bucks 608 is more but also worth it. A set of decent gauges isnāt 100 bucks online too especially Ken with a left hand right hand adapters
If you need hoses rock auto or carparts.com you donāt need OEM parts most of the compressors are made by the same company hoses are hoses and the rest you will have to get oeM as they are most likely made for your car all your it box auto retailers have most if not everything you need
R22 was typically used in older residential applications not automotive uses.
You may be thinking of R12 that was used in the Automotive market.
You may want to look at your dates for your R134a end use as well. 2014 was not the last year of it - not even close!
Please try to post accurate information.
No one uses r12 Freon or r22 anymore and even if you were an old r22 system you could still use 134 as the pressures are similar but it would only sort of work. r22 100psi @90 r134 104 @90) What you canāt use is 1234y in a 134 or r22 system due to the pressure nature of the refrigerant and oil differences. Additional care using ester oil vs mineral oil r22 or pĆ”g oil 134 systems and getting the amount correct is also required for conversion but it is 100% doable. Now be warned 134 is super caustic and designed to eat old rubber hoses so you will most likely have to replace these too with green seals hoses and gaskets. Also 2021 was about the year most manufacturers switched to 1234 with 2025 being the final which was right about time the patent ran out if you are a conspiracy personā¦ The compressor, door / engine sticker or the internet will tell you the refrigerant for your car. Also 1234 runs at significantly higher pressure and is much more of a problem. Hope this helps basically what Iām saying although conversion is possible it is difficult and the refrigerants are designed in a way just enough that you have ti buy a whole new system if you want it to work right.
