1986 VW Westfalia Project

Automotive
#41

Been busy at work and “life”.

In the event you opt to remove the side windows they are very easy to install if you have new seals. All you need is a piece of 550 cord (also known as parachute cord-i have a mile or so of it) and some soapy water and an extra pair of hands. Older seal if reallypliable may be ok, but they may tear going back in (you’ve been informed).
There may be drain holes under the window seals that are clogged. The older models had them. (Perhaps the later models yours being a T3 - doesn’t due to budget cuts or a young Engineer with a “fresh idea”)

2 Likes
#42

Think it’s worth the spend to get new seals all around. Windows don’t come out too often and rust prevention includes good seals.

Really looking forward to start going to MS and work on restore there.

image
99E333F2-8F1C-4FB6-86B9-7EB0FFC793E4.jpeg3024×4032 2.9 MB

1 Like
#43

@TBJK - You were right… Inspection was a breeze.

$7.00 and 1 hr. later we were done. (15 min. for inspection, 45 min. chatting with technician about the van and how much the world has changed since the 80’s.

2 Likes
#44

If you want help some evening or a sunday with the window rubber(once you have the new ones) - I’d be happy to help.

1 Like
#45

@TLAR
Just ordered new seals; and some other parts I think will be needing. For sure need some help to ensure I don’t break a window.

There are a couple areas that need work. I’m certainly not afraid to tackle but have never works on rust in windows. Do you know anyone will rust experience?

1 Like
#46

Yes I do…just leave out the part where your T3 is liquid cooled (at least in the beginning of the conversation) and things will go better. His preference used to be older VW’s -pre 53 models.
He is close to Denton.

1 Like
#47

Had to take a van break. My daily driver was stolen and dealing with insurance company has been a pain.

Here is first look at rust as I’m starting to take van apart.

image
2565F957-368B-4523-9394-1A831CC2DFFB.jpeg4032×3024 3.15 MB
image
5E9BEA58-7938-4A2A-8D65-A3971921F76C.jpeg4032×3024 2.32 MB

2 Likes
#48

nasty A pillar/windshield pinch weld perforation/ rain gutter. On the T2 models (68-79) the rear roof sections is a popular body clip bought used and cut out and welded in as a replacement for gutter rust and lift gate hinge /torsion mounts.(not a task for the novice)

1 Like
#49

So it’s been a bit since I last posted. After some trial and error learned the hard way that I’m not an expert at rust repair. Fortunately, found someone who is! So the Westy is now on week 4 of sitting at some shop waiting for the owner to find time to work on it.

The good thing is he was reasonable on price (but not cheap) and I can pester him every couple of days until he finishes the work. the downside is, he knows it’s not my daily driver so not his first (or second, or even third) priority.

On the bright side… I’ve been paying attention to some other projects. 1) My 1979 Jeep CJ-5 that I’m looking to get shipping to Dallas from California (anyone know of a good transport company?). I’ve owned this car for over 20 years and was the very first car I built from parts. Trying to decide if it’s time to give her to someone else to enjoy - and pay attention to.

And… I might bring along a 80’s Classic Mini (my friend needs the $$$), and I have always wanted to drive a go-cart. It’s in Phoenix. Good 1275 A+ engine, with A/C (rare) - no rust (or so he says). Would be a nice MakerSpace vehicle since parts are cheap, and breaks down all the time.

1 Like
#50

You should chat with @Omnomsan Kenneth…

2 Likes
#51

as long as your body man is not a VW body man out of “New Hope” north of McKinney you are good-er to go.

1 Like
#52

If you bring the Mini in, I can help you look through all the suspect spots for rust. Mine is gorgeous on the outside but as I’ve discovered, it’s got the usual rust spots as well as some not so great repairs that need fixing eventually. Definitely some jobs that I would enjoy turning into a YouTube series or something. I’d enjoy getting to see yours.

1 Like
#53

Working with place near Oak Lawn area. Nice guy, loves VW’s. He is trying to get out of mechanic and more into restoration. I’m keeping a close eye on him since I’ve not used him, though did look at some of his other “in-progress” vehicles and some good, some bad. I called him out on the bad and said I will be checking up during the process to ensure he doesn’t do the bad. Hope he does good work.

#54

Thanks @Omnomsan.
To be honest I’ve never owned a Mini; usually stick to easy VW’s, though I’ve owned a few other vehicles along the way. I am still working on restoration of a Westfalia and got my old CJ sitting in the Cali desert for last 2 years that I need to get to. Oh, and my brothers Promaster camper build - worried I’m racking up projects.

This would be a favor for a friend, so worried about getting into a bad spot. I would be ok if I could daily it for a while; but it’s certainly not a restoration - yet. Debating this.

Anything I should ask him before I plunge money into this? Any chance I can come see the mini next time your working on it?

#55

Sharing CJ photo.

image
122E1C45-8360-4A88-AC7F-0C4D67BE1CB6.jpeg1536×2048 485 KB
image
image
B4EFCB41-CF51-4CAE-80D8-AB1A9B324B92.jpeg4032×3024 3.63 MB
image
F83803D9-52E8-4590-8E51-B491B3D6F5A7.jpeg4032×3024 3.44 MB

#56

That’s me 20 years ago when I first build my Jeep. First car I ever built and got me hooked on working on vehicles every since.

#57

:rofl: :blankspace:

#58

The mini will be back at DMS when it’s ready for the engine to go back in, soooooon. Not really that soon, possibly January-ish… maybe.

Check the subframe mounting points for rust front and rear, makes sure it doesn’t have oversills ) Google or YouTube to see what I mean), check for play in the steering wheel or knocking when going over bumps that feels like a hammer on the floor board, make sure the CVs are good at full lock, check for oil leaks (some is normal, but where from is important), make sure the electronics are all working, check the rubber suspension cones to see if they’re flattened or still shaped like… , well, cones. Rust is typical around the windows, rear boot seam, door sills, roof gutter, and pretty much every seam on the body. Don’t just glance at things. Get a flashlight and stick your head under the bonnet or into the boot at look at the condition of the interior metal.

Things to also consider are the engine size. 998cc is cheaper to repair, 1275cc and up is not. Learn the difference between A and A+ engines.

Check out ClassicMiniDIY on YouTube to learn a bunch more. Good luck :+1:

3 Likes
#59

wait a second…eyes

2 Likes
#60

Lol I say that because I fixed an issue with my reverse lights not working, only to cause my blinkers to stop working. Fixed that and now my battery drain dead :man_facepalming:… Yeah. I ordered an entirely new harness that arrives next week :grin:

2 Likes