I have figured out what to do to have reasonably tight control of the bottom of a print (things like the melting bottoms) temp profiles are the way to go.Problem is different profiles each have their own problems / advantages.
For example, When I want text on the bottom a head temp of 205°C works (for my black ABS plastic, which isn’t quite right), but it is detrimental to the print as a whole. If I could raise the head temp back to 250°C after 25 layers I think I would have a workable solution.
Will someone please point me to the KISSlicer manual?
I found it after posting this, then got very sick, and couldn’t update this post in a timely manner. If I figure out a solution to updating the temperature during a print I 'll post it here. I suspect the answer (if there is one) is in the G-code tab of the profile settings.
While I don’t have a link to the manual, I do know how to change the printer extruder temp at a given layer. Note that this is inserted after each N layers, regardless of the height of each layer. This means the temp gets reset repeatedly, but that’s OK as we’re gonna use the new temp once you reach the minimum height. Setting the temp to X when it’s already X won’t slow the print.
Under the Slicer “expert mode”, you can visit the “Printer G-code” tab, then click on the “N[*] Layers” subtab.
There you can select a layer (not a height) at which you want your custom code inserted, then add a G-code call to set a new layer temp:
M109 S<TEMP>;
; Example: set the extruder temp to 220 C
M190 S220;
Even better would be to move off to one side and retract the filament a bit before raising the temp:
Caveats:
this code is untested
I recommend you use this on your version of KISSlicer - not the DMS versions.
If you mod the expert code on the DMS machines, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE ensure that it is not left that way for the next person. We used to reset the install on each activation, but I don’t know if that’s still done in today’s developer environment at DMS.
Excellent! Thank you. Since KISSlicer flags an error when I slice on my computer I will continue to slice my .stl stuff at the space. I will check to be sure it returns to defaults, and do it manually if it doesn’t.
FYI, The manual is part of installing KISSlicer and the polyprinter software and shows up as a .pdf file.
I have been a sick girl all day, but this was important enough to me I soldered on in spite of it.
Eventually I will be getting a new to me computer.
As always, I will leave feedback here on how it went.
Tried the new G code, it worked except for one problem, it turned off the bed heater, bad juju that. I had to clean a large blob of plastic off the extruder. Couldn’t find the brass scrub bush either. So what is the G code to reset the bed temp to110°C?
BTW, any changes made to KISSlicer is permanent unless manually reset. So my KISSlicer will be the only one I use from now on, Design Computer #1, will need its temperature values reset manually. It should be250, 260, 200,110. I had to give up my seat at the computer to verify the changes are permanent. Now that I know I’ll be more careful.
My plastic melts somewhere between 180°C and 190°C, I verified this experimentally. Looks like I will be making notes about all my well used plastics.
it looks like you’ve got it all worked out. everything you did is the same learning curve i had (and still do!) I’m gonna read this thread closely to see if there’s anything new i can learn. Thank you for having this discussion come out wendy!
If you need more granular control over the print (layer thickness, temperature, speed, etc.) Then I recommend Simplify3D. All of the design computers have it, you just need to click on the ‘x’ button on the little window when it asks you to log in
Only one of the design computers has Simplify3D on it at them moment, we are going to try and have them on all the computers once we get them in the 3d Fab room
Simplyfi3D is not on the jump server nor will it be once it is installed on the computers, its a licensed program and we are not allowed to put it on the jump server.
So, dealing with questionable plastic, I have found raising the temperature to 250 C after250 layers causes the liquid plastic to just melt through defeating the whole point of the exercise. My text indention is 0.2" deep. Each layer is 0.25 mm (read this off of KISSlicer while it was printing), or 0.00984" / Layer. 0.2" = 20 Layers This suggests the melting is the head being way too hot once layer one is done. This suggests Layer 1 should be as cool as possible if you want Layer 2 to be, say, 215 C. Man this plastic is a PITA. The other possible solution is to add a pause, to allow the head to cool down to the desired temperature. I’ll try both and get back with you.
What kind of plastic are you using? Assuming you are using the polyprinters, you should be using PLA. If so, 250c sounds too hot for PLA. I typically use PETG (which needs higher extrusion temp) and I found my sweet spot is 235. For PLA, the Hatchbox specs say you should stay between 180c and 220c
If not using Hatchbox, still consult the manufacturers specs because they usually list recommended print temps.
EDIT: Darn it. Got confused. It’s been too long since I’ve used a PolyPrinter. The PolyPrinters at DMS are ABS NOT PLA. Sorry Max… For ABS optimal extruder temps are 210c - 240c. 250c is still too hot.
It is supposed to be ABS, Other than the bottoms appearing melted it works OK. I posted the spool on this thread, I suspect it was a batch of bad plastic. Just to reiterate, here it is again.
For ABS optimal extruder temps are 210c - 240c. 250c is still too hot.