Hello Everyone,
I wont to build my own coffee table and I want to slab (or slabs) of interesting wood to do it [Red Oak/ Mahogany/ Bloodywood]. My question is How should I finish the wood? I am a novice and I know the answer exists, but I haven’t found it yet so I thought I would ask. I have worked in cutting boards before and used mineral oil, and I love the way it brings out the grain. I what to show off the grain but I also want some something the will be stain resistant and water resistant. Again I am a novice so any help is appreciated
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Stay away from Red Oak…too open-grained.
I keep this sitting on my Desktop for occasional reference (ignore the sales/marketing aspects):
minwax-wood-finishing-basics.pdf (933.9 KB)
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In my experience, finishing depends substantially on the intended use. If you’re going to use these in a setting where there is a nonzero chance of liquids being spilled, I’ve had very good experience using Target Coatings line of EMTECH EM8000cv pre-catalyzed water-based conversion varnishes, also the EM6000 line. It requires being sprayed on, but it lays down nicely and it nearly bombproof on dining tables and the like without a thick film finish, whereas a bartop epoxy-type finish is usually a really thick film. You can also use a traditional shellac prior to spraying the emtech if you want to make the grain really pop.
Just got an email that they have a 25% sale going on now. Use promo code JA25 if you’re interested.
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For a piece like that, it’s all about starting with and continuing to develop character. Even if styles change and at some point you want to change the base, the top should given a chance to be that hand-me-down heirloom item.
I would recommend you consider Odie’s Oil & Wax products. On a price per ounce basis, it’s a bit scary, but it really does go a long, long way. Plus it is just about as foolproof to apply as you will find anywhere. Here’s some info I put together for another member:
Common uses for Odie’s Wax:
Fine furniture, Boats, Bright work, Doors, Floors, Decks, Gates, Patio Furniture, Bowls, Cutting Boards, Kitchen Implements, Knife handles, Toys, etc., etc.
I bought the kit. Can be bought as individual products as well. You probably can do just fine with the Oil and you will have lots left over from a single 9 oz bottle.
https://www.infinitytools.com/wood-finish-and-supplies/wood-finish/oils-and-waxes/odie-s-oil-4-pc-complete-wood-finishing-kit
Tips for using:
https://www.infinitytools.com/fileuploader/download/download/?d=0&file=custom%2Fupload%2FFile-1443100379.pdf
Two blog articles:
http://blog.infinitytools.com/2013/12/17/odysseus-cornwalls-outstanding-oils-waxes-a-k-a-odies-oil/
https://www.infinitytools.com/blog/2016/03/08/step-up-your-finishing-skills-with-odies-oil/
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Odie’s is good, I personally use Rubio Monocoat to finish all my live edge tables. It leaves a very natural feel, brings out the beauty in the color, and is waterproof.
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Between Odie’s and Monocoat … our recommendations makes an exotic wood look downright reasonable, huh? 
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Can you send me a link, I looked at the site and im not sure which product is the waterproof finish?
To add on to this has anyone tried General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Oil Based Topcoat. Its a Oil Urethane mix. Was wondering if anyone had used it
OK cool, I saw it.
- Very wear-resistant.
- Water- and heat-resistant, ideal for kitchens and bathrooms.
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It’s expensive but worth it for ease of application, you can’t mess the stuff up, and for the finish quality.
Yes I use it. Good product as well.
All of the above are good. One advantage of the rubio products is you only sand to 150 grit.
My favorite all time finish is Waterlox. Its a pain to work with but it sure is pretty when done.
There are lots of great ways to finish it, and each can be an expression of personal taste.
If I were going it, i’d sand to 220, take extra time to remove all dust and grit from sanding first. Then, I’d wipe it down with a little bit of appropriate aniline dye mixed in water, to color up the grain a bit. Once dry, I’d hit it with linseed oil and let it dry thoroughly. I’d probably end up doing more than one coat of linseed…
Once completely dry (2-3 days after last coat of linseed), I’d apply a coat of fresh-mixed blonde shellac, then lightly sand to 320 grit. Another coat or two of shellac, a final light sanding with 320, and then hit it with a topcoat. Done well, your grain should really be popping, be well filled and leveled.
Lots of great suggestions above for topcoats, but I think durability has to be a big factor on tables. I’d probably go with Lacquer. Tough, durable, attractive, and easy to repair, and easy to apply.
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