Someone needs to go back through training. Look at these deep cuts in the bottom boards.
I have first hand knowledge of the circumstances of the third image and…
…is extremely unfair. The person responsible should be training others. Given the fact that they are now aware of a failure that you clearly are not, that includes you.
The person responsible for the damage in the first image has apologized. I have every reason to believe that apology was sincere. I believe they volunteered to make amends.
A bit of unsolicited advice. Speaking from a position of ignorance is rarely a good idea.
In any case, thank you for reporting the damage.
So how about walking away from the Multicam while its running? That ok? For you know, 10, 15, 20 minutes at a time.
I was there for the shallow cuts, I just finished a job using a 1/2" collet and was going to hang around to help cleanup after the next user. This was using a 1/4" collet, partway through the job it cut through and one of the parts came loose even though cut depth was less than board thickness and top of part and top of table was set correctly. We stopped the job and retorqued the bit, and decreased the cut depth. It was a brand new bit. Second pass cut through again. Somehow the bit was coming loose, we noticed the collet was out of round and fairly loose when inserting the bit. We think the collet was defective and removed it from the drawer. We tried to fill the cuts in the spoil board but the rock hard water putty container felt close to empty.
I ordered my own set of collets and a nut, we should consider replacing some or all of the collets and nuts.
It will be interesting to check fit and runout with new vs heavily used collets.
Sounds like maybe some of the collets have been torqued without being properly snapped into the nut?
That makes sense, the flange in the nut that engages with the slot around the collet would hit one side of the front face of the collet when tightening and distort it.
Our nuts seemed much looser than what I’ve seen in the past, they didn’t seem to lock onto the collet like I expected with an audible and tactile click. Once the nut is on the collet and a bit is in the collet I don’t think the nut should be able to come off. If the nut can come off then it risks disorting the collet when tightening. I’ll check that later today
It is perfectly possible to install a collet+nut properly but it is becoming difficult - which encourages laziness. The collet wrenches slip because the castellations in the nuts are wallowed out.
We should probably order a new set of collets and nuts and throw away the ones we have.
Send me links and I’ll get them ordered.
I’ll PM you. Need to check the nut specs first.
I don’t remember where the discussion ended up on people bringing their own spoil boards, would be a hassle with having to transport and store our own but I was going to try that.
What if we got several sheets of sacraficial 1/4 or 3/8 MDF to be used on top of the spoilboard, could be cut to 2x4, 4x4,5x5 for easier handling when working on small projects. And keep some full sheets for large projects, if we cut through no big deal we can donate $20 and toss it.
This is what central Hardwoods stocks
Last time this discussion was brought up there was talk of redoing the boards. Any thoughts on moving forward with that so that the surface can be actually flat? I have had trouble getting things accurate on the Z dimension because some places are about 1/8th inch higher than others.
Better look at the nuts again … That design won’t work. They are round nuts with notches if memory serves. Perske spindles don’t use a generic ER collet & cover nut.
Pretty sure it is like the one here:
But maybe I am wrong. DMS had to replace the spindle and the new one could be a different collet system. Wiki says it is ER25 and if that’s correct, then my recollections are obsolete.
The replacement spindle model number is SPINDLE PERSKE 4HP VS50-09-02 per the invoice from Multicam.
Going this evening to start the effort.
It is correct. We’re using ER-25 collets.
But, you got the “mini nut” part correct.
That’s what I remember as well.
Sounds good, except… how do you keep the spare MDF panels from walking away? Maybe paint them fluorescent pink (apologies to the Creative Arts team) or something so it’s quite obvious if someone is using it in a project.
can be bought in many colors, dyed, so no sanding away the evidence…
Unfortunately. community spoil boards don’t seem to be a feasible option. Each user needs to provide their own board. Please keep in mind that the user can gang multiple boards if they need to cut a larger item. The uncomfortable truth is why respect smaller DMS provided boards when larger, more expensive boards are destroyed?
2’x4’ MDF boards are readily available from Home Depot. The real question might be how thick they are required to be. 1/2" is probalby too thin to serve as an adequate safety margin. 3/4" is probably the best solution.
This rule is expected to emerge from the new rules when they are codified and posted. Another expected requirement will be for the users to provided their own router bits. This should cut down on people being so careless since they now have a little skin in the game.