Well I have been busy on my 64 Corvair. And hopefully will have it ready to drive mid to late June
Ouch! That hurts looking at it!
I think I can spot the problem.
Yeah, it’s kinda obvious, huh?
I know, right? Pretty close to what I said also.
I’m estimating that it’s going to cost about $2,500 to get it repaired and back up and running. That’s going to be for having that cylinder bored and sleeved, new valve seat put into the head, a full block prep with honing, decking, new freeze plugs, magnaflux and cleaning / degreasing, all new 6.1L valve springs and retainers, 6.1L camshaft, new valves, complete rebuild kit, new alternator, new starter, new battery and a new clutch.
It also includes new exhaust, long tube headers and a cold air intake.
That piston is shot, and probably the connecting rod. I wouldn’t trust the rod hammered that valve.
Well, the Piston doesn’t have any holes in it so I’m going to have the piston and Rod checked for hairline fractures or any weak stress points.
If the check out good, then I’ll reuse them.
Strongly suggest need to be checked for cracks, especially around the wrist pin area. Rod will also need to be checked for straightness.
Magna flux checked if possible which will detect internal cracks. You’re putting a whole lot money into the rebuild and two of the parts that took a lot stress they don’t normally see should be checked. Cost of properly checking may be close to replacement cost.
But that’s just my opinion and not my money.
I just said that I was going to have them checked…
This is not my first engine rebuild, and it’s not my first rebuild from a dropped valve so I kinda know what I’m doing.
And no, having the piston and Rod checked is a lot cheaper than “just replacing it”.
But it might be the first forum interaction you’ve had here with someone who likely has far more experience in machining that you do, so take it easy and accept advice graciously. Nobody can make you do anything you don’t want to do.
Just curious - how many miles on the engine?