What are the rules/protocol for sanding and finishing at DMS

I’m coming to the point of some projects where it’s time to sand and apply some form of finish.

And I’m full of questions about how is the best way to go about this. some are project-specific, but many are related to the woodshop rules. so here I go. I’m hoping some of the more senior members could pitch in with their knowledge

Sanding
-Where in DMS shall we do the sanding, inside woodshop, or outside tables?
-what type of sanders do we have so I can buy the right sanding disks, is it adhesive, velcro, are there different diameters?

Finishing

  • Is this to be done in the outside tables?
  • I know there is currently no material storage available at DMS, can we still leave finished work drying in between coats overnight?
  • What about fumes and working surface protection for applying finishes? can this still be done inside DMS? Lacquer, polyurethane, or dare I say it, paint.?
  • is there plastic or paper available to protect the tables/floor while working on the pieces?
  • finally do we have HVLP spray applicators and what are the rules for them?

Thanks, everyone.

I’m very new at woodworking and the finishing process feels so intimidating, Infinite posivilities. so additional tips are welcomed. currently working on a magnetic knife block (Sapele) and 3 spice rack shelves (Walnut). also started on a walnut coffee table but that will take longer to get to the finishing step

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Sanding:
If you can, we encourage you to do sanding in the woodshop. We recognize however that there is limited table space to do so. If necessary, you may sand in the general area outside woodshop. If you’re going to do so, please use the festool vaccuum (which you probably want to use anyway) to reduce dust, and frequently check your paper to make sure you’re not damaging the pads. Typical rules about cleaning up after yourself and be excellent apply.

We’re using the Festool ETS 150/3 EQ, for which you can check out Tools - Dallas Makerspace to get more information. (It’s hook and loop.) You can buy paper from the sanding table for $1 a piece; pay using the tall black box or ipad checkout. Please do not use undersized discs on the sanders as it will destroy the pads.

Finishing:

In my opinion, if you can swing it, doing this at home will always be a better experience than anything else right now. That said, here are the actual rules:

Absolutely no, none, 0, nothing can be sprayed on DMS property. Not in the general area, not in the parking lot, not in your car in the parking lot. Not even a clear shellac primer. We have no HVLP. Longer answer/reason: if we spray anything at DMS, we have to track its exact amount and report it to the city. Every exception to list that we don’t submit is a massive fine. Because we can’t depend on members to report their spraying accurately, its absolutely not worth it to have a spray booth.

Right now there is no storage space at all. Leaving items overnight is technically a violation of that rule. If you’d like to seek exception to that rule for curing of finish, talk with @PearceDunlap.

We don’t currently have paper to protect work surfaces as its a consumable and expensive for the space to provide. Hopefully this will change in the future as the space stabilizes post expansion.

You may paint, rub, wipe, any finish you want… again be excellent applies- please don’t paint a noxious substance and leave it for others to breathe for 3 days while it cures. (This more applies to fiberglass / resin off gassing while in storage).

Finishing Advice:
There are as many opinions on the proper way to finish any given project as there are woodworkers in the world. Everyone’s got a trick, you’ll figure out what works for you over time.

Best advice: pick something and do it. You’ll learn and try the next thing. At the end of a few years, you’ll have an odd assortment of half used bottles of finishing supplies and you’ll know what you like when. You’ll probably come down to 2-4 finish techniques after that once you know what you like.

What I would do on your described projects:
knife block- cutting board oil/mineral oil/beeswax. Non toxic, easy to keep up, cheap, and matches the use case of knives. Second option would 3xcoats rub on poly for same reason as spice rack. (Both can also be applied at DMS)
Spice rack- 3x coats rub-on poly. High use surface to me immediately says poly. rub-on poly is just my personal preference for ease of use. Alternate options are BLO, walnut oil, Malouf’s.

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PS. Thanks for asking.

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Ian nailed it here.

I’m just here to restate how much we want to contain sanding to the woodshop (and metal grinding to the metal shop) this is a good reason you probably don’t want to be doing the finishing at the space, youll end up with a lot of debris in your piece.

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Sanding can be done at the sanding station inside the wood shop or in the workshop if using one of the festool vacuums. There are sanding disks for sale at the sanding station, but if you want to buy your own WoodCraft or various places online sell them. They are for the Festool brand of orbital, rotex or finish sanders. I think they are all 6", hook and loop style.

For finishing, the only hard fast rule I am aware of is that there is no aerosol allowed at all. But using large amounts of noxious urethanes or whatever would be kind of not cool as other people use the space.

For the two small projects you mention, Rockler and Wood Craft have some really great wipe on finishes. Arm-r-Seal wipe on urethane is solid. For the coffee table, roubio monocoat is a very easy / good one step finish. Expensive though. As far as leaving stuff overnight @Team_Logistics can better speak to that. Have fun!

edit: I type slow
edit #2: I’ll avoid sanding in the workshop. I assumed since there were festool vacuums stored near the Ryobi’s that it was OK.

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