No, it is the one we were looking at that was offered as a donation. It is 10’ x 10’ x 20’.
My son is putting a new hot end on it and converting it to 2.85 mm filament. They are working to get the pellet hopper feed.
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So that massive printer really is a donation to DMS? Your son is doing the massive print head thing right with a bondtech and volcano head. I don’t think a pellet hopper is too practical still, if it’s anything like the filastruder we had, it’s a pain in the butt to get consistent extrusion. You can actually easily get 10KG spools of 2.85 (3mm) https://ic3dprinters.com/shop/pla-filaments/ except your costs scale to that volume.
You think we have a problem with people not paying for filament now, wait until they print 10x the volume.
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Wait that is going to makerspace?
The PEI layer is a giant sticker. You can get another sticker for like $10 from Prusa or other sources. I bought an extra sticker with mine when it was new but haven’t needed it yet.
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With it being at least 10X bigger in each dimension, it’d really be 10x10x10=1,000 times the volume.
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I got waitlisted for a “new model” and the MMU upgrade when I ordered my MK2. By the time it shipped, the mk2 was replaced by the 2S within a month or two and the MMU was the same way.
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Micro Center has the Creality Ender 3 for $250 at the moment !!!
We bought a few of these for our robotics team partners for face shield production.
They work pretty well and the bed is pretty reasonable too. I was expecting to have to replace with PEI but it doesn’t seem to need it.
I personally have 4 printers currently, a CR10S, an Ender Pro 3, a Prusa 3 clone I built from scratch (and increased the bed size and height in the process) and… wait for it… a Mendel… built from threaded rod and nuts !!! 
I STILL love the Mendel. Gives great prints and has required pretty much zero maintenance.
I agree with everyone that a genuine Prusa is likely the best quality for the price, but the $250 Ender gives pretty darn good results too.
We did have one of the Enders we bought have a faulty SD reader and another needed the endstops adjusted slightly, so there are certainly quality concerns with the Ender, but hey… $250 !!!
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Walter would be proud.
Just about every box, chassis, coil bobbin, etc. he made w/ PLA on a Lulzbot
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New Creality CR-6 SE discounted on Kickstarter for 10 days.
Creality Fans: What do you think of your printers? What do you think about this deal?
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I endorse the Prusa printers. I built a Prusa i3 MK2 from a kit about 3 years ago. It worked perfectly from the first power up. The kit is easy, though tedious, to build and I bet the newest design is even easier since I think they got rid of the threaded rods.
Until a few weeks ago, I never had a problem with it. There is now a print head blockage that I have not figured out. I am grumbling about one aspect of the design because the print head / wiring harness is built (assembled by you) around one of the guide rods, making it hard to get the hot end off for inspection / disassembly.
Still, 3 years with no malfunctions seems pretty good.
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when my cheap A8 clogged up early on (my fault), I bought a pack of TINY drill bits to clean out the tip after having trouble getting the tip to unthread. Worked like a charm and still chugging along
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Seems like they are using features off other machines they currently have out to make them better. Those drivers are the same drivers that are on my CR-10S Pro, they are quiet. I’m not sure what they are doing about fans, if they used the same Meanwell 24v power supply or not. The fans are about the loudest thing on mine. You can change the fans to make it quieter.
The automatic leveling, well it kinda works. It does to seem to have some bugs but that may be just my experience.
One thing to note as well, Creality in the current models, has it to where the center is front left on the bed. That’s what I found out was wrong with my Cura slicer. I had the Center checked in Cura, turns out that needs to be unchecked.
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Don’t yell, but it really depends on what you want to invest time wise. My first 3D printer was a Da Vinci 1.0, because it was fully assembled, worked right out of the box, and came with a warranty plus tech support. All I had to do was provide a level surface and start printing.
My next one was a dual-extruder Powerspec from Micro Center. That one has been fun and easy too.
Kits are OK, but you really need patience and a source of help when things go wrong. It’s nice to have someone to talk to that can explain why your printer is crooked because you built it on an unlevel surface or because you didn’t tighten the hardware to the proper (or even the same) specs at each step. Or, why you are having such a hard time getting the printing surface level.
Those are things I wish I had on my 3rd printer - a bricked Da Vinci 1.0 that someone tried to install Repetier on. I figured out how to unbrick the printer and reassemble/fix the extruder, but it took me almost 4 hours to get the print bed level. I shall endeavor to NEVER move that printer after all that. BUT, that wasn’t all. I had to figure out all the settings for slicing and printing, but luckily there were forums that got me 85% of the way dialed in. Several small prints later and the printer is my favorite out of the three I currently use. I learned a lot, but after owning 2 other printers I felt like I wasn’t overwhelmed.
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I would agree that kits are not for everyone. One reason I went that way was because I figured that packed as individual pieces, it would be less subject to getting bent / broken or knocked out of alignment.
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From those with more experience, I’d like to know just how effective an enclosure is at preventing the ends of large objects from warping and peeling up from the bed, when printing with ABS? I have gotten pretty good with using “ABS juice”, but that is far from solving the problem. To me this is the biggest disappointment with 3D printing. Printing with PET is much better, but I don’t like the way most PET filaments are transparent. They remind me of Sonic Drive-in animal trinkets.
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Center is usually only checked for delta printers - not cartesian printers. My Monoprice Mini Delta uses “center”, while my Prusa and home grown PrintrBot do not.
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That’s good to know Mike.
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What filament brands do you guys use? Which ones do you stay away from? Do you prefer American made filament over import?
Right now I’m running Nijatek PLA. I’m a little concerned about trying cheap stuff, wasting my time & money
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I’ve had good luck with the house brand at Micro Center and the various brands (MG, etc.) at Fry’s I bought on clearance.
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Hatchbox has been good for me. Esun and cheaper brands can have inconsistency with certain colors like black. Not that they’re bad, just something to consider if you run into issues.
I haven’t had trouble with any of the higher end brands (and I actually use Push Plastics day to day) but they are notably more expensive.
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