Please dont set wet things on our metal tables, they leave a rust ring. Can whoever left it this way please clean it up.
Purple ScotchBrite and a light oil like WD40 should take care of it.
Thanks
Randy
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Thanks for pointing out, but honestly would of taken just as long to fix them as making the post. Given this is an issue that happens days after the cup or bottle was placed there this is a problem that is better touched rather than griped about. Also, the leftover oil film would protect the surface going forward.
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he’s the vice chair Nick. I’d bet he made the post because he has had to fix them before and he has better things to do that clean up after others.
your post isn’t really helpful
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If you want to meet me at the back door I’ll fix them. It is a fast and easy job, worth doing not worth complaining about.
You seem to miss the whole point here. This isn’t about complaining its about awareness.
If you don’t use the space, why do you care?
As those who use it regularly simple reminders like this provide clear and concise instructions on how to do better in the future…
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What don’t I understand?
If it is about doing the work repair, I’ll do it! I’m not going to reactivate my membership and pay to do the repair. But, I care that the space is maintained, because I do want it around and working when I have a project worthy of reactivating my membership.
These kinds of issue blaming member named “Whoever” neither inform the multiple people who’s behavior lead to this and don’t lead to the behavior being changed. This is because it takes days if not weeks for these marks to show up. So the person’s doing it likely will have forgotten they were even in the metal shop with a drink when this happened.
If anything, these kinds of marks are an indication that regular cleaning and oiling is not happening frequent enough to the unfinished metal surfaces in the metal shop. At that point it is a committee level issue. That all said, if you want to handle it as an individual issue, track down the individuals that left the marks and call them out.
Or, continue to call me out for offering ways to actually solve the problem and offering to do the labor of fixing the problem.
I haven’t been in the metal shop in awhile, but appreciate the reminder.
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Ok, first off… that looks less like a drink and more like it was something, or multiple some things, that came out of the vapor hone, which to be honest, is a common issue.
I’ve done it on accident, others have done it and it’s a simple fix with either a slightly damp shop towel, then dried with paper towel or in the case that it’s a little stubborn, Scotch-Brite or #0000 steel wool.
It’s not that big of a deal, but it is something people can become absent-minded about while they’re working so the courtesy reminder is appreciated and warranted.
Second, to say that those Rings would take days if not weeks to show up is wrong.
On uncoated, bare mild Steel without mill scale, light surface rust (like in the pictures) can start to form within 15 minutes and be quite apparent within 45 minutes to an hour. For the affected areas to become as dark as they are in the pictures, only takes about two and a half to three hours.
And that’s with just water. One of the tricks I use to get a patina on New pieces is to use a 50/50 mix of water and vinegar and that starts oxidizing (surface rust) within mere minutes.
My thoughts (because I would rather not be accused of having an opinion without offering a solution) are 2 fold.
1.) I have a cut file for a drink and phone holder that could be easily modified, cut out of 16 gauge on the plasma cutter and a few of them could be placed around the shop to keep drinks and / or phones out of Harm’s Way also reducing the risk of accidental spillage.
2.) As for what parts coming out of the vapor hone, I would think setting up a “wet” table (clear or powder coated top) or drying rack next to it to lay wet parts out of the vapor hone on would be something to consider. I would also strongly suggest having a holder with either a roll of paper towels like we have in the bathrooms or blue shop towels like machine shop has specifically for drying wet parts so we don’t continue to have this issue.
That solution might seems a little over-the-top, but it may be worth considering.
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Great idea on the drying table, if one of those pink carts is still available that might work. I dont put anything wet on any wooden tables in our house or on any of my tools.
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The pink cart could work, but to be honest, a small table with a 2x2ft top made out of construction grade Douglas fir and treated with either Thompson’s or a heavy saturating coat of beeswax and mineral oil I would be great and cost effective.
I would suggest the beeswax and mineral oil just because it soaks in and creates a fire resistant property to the wood.
Beyond that, I would suggest a 16 gauge 2x2ft top that’s powder coated (when and if we get the new powder coat oven in and operational).
Other than that, I would suggest a 36 in tall stainless steel wire Shelf.
But I still stand by the fixture to hold either a roll of paper towels or blue shop towels to help with drying off Parts.
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I note that the diameter of the stains is 2". Coincidentally this is the same as the diameter as the contact surface on the bottom of a soft drink can. Could there be a simpler solution?
Charles,
I feel that it’s something out of a vapor hone just because it is not hot enough right now to make a soda can sweat that much.
I would reference you to look at the six spots on the edge in picture number 2.
However, that does not negate my point.
I would hope it would be something out of the vapor hone and not a drink as the particulates in that area are horrible and they would be drinking them.
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And also maybe have a hose with compressed air close by the Vapor Hone to help speed the drying of freshly cleaned parts.
And if someone will tell me where the new replacement gloves are for both the Automotive Parts Washer and the Vapor Hone, I’d be glad to get them installed so both of those tools are less prone to leakage.
Also, I’ve discovered when using the Vapor Hone that if you hear the water pump cavitating, it means the bottom tank is low on water. It makes that pump work extra hard for nothing and I think, but do not know for sure, that that might lead to premature wear and failure. I’ve found that filling a clean 5 gal. bucket 2/3 full and dumping it in the bottom tank solves the problem and the unit functions better.
DD
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