Using a spindle sander to modify my dash for new gauges

Woodshop
#1

I’m going to be opening up some holes in my dash a bit and plan on using the spindle sander to do so. I believe it’s coated in clear epoxy, and as such, I don’t want to gum up the community paper. Does anyone have a recommendation for spindles that are 3-3.5" dia. that are compatible with the spindle sander? I need to take some holes from 94mm to 100mm. Amazon links are handy, but local suppliers are preferred if possible so I can grab something same day :slight_smile:

The two outer holes in the cluster of three will be enlarged. Picture for reference:
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#2

If that’s all you need you might want to hand sand it to fit. I’m all for using power tools but 6mm isn’t much material to remove especially in the area between the three holes

#3

I was planning on drawing my line then sneaking up on it gradually. The wood is pretty thick so hand sanding seems like it’ll take forever, and I’ll be patching the center hole/drilling two new 52mm holes in its place, and ultimately redoing the veneer on the protrusion. I suppose I could use a short PVC pipe with some rough grit paper and achieve the same but at a slow pace

#4

I’ll be converting the existing three hole layout into this new layout. The center gauge is being split into two smaller 52mm gauges and then the status lights that used to be integral to that gauge are being put in as separate lights with holes ~12mm:

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#5

There’s a bin of tubes in the woodshop annex, find a fresh tube in the bin in the size you want and then donate $5-10 to woodshop depending on how big it is.

Take the tube with you when you leave in case you need to use it again later. Be sure to put the original tube back on when you’re done.

If you want to order your own tubes I believe I ordered from toolnut or maybe the jet website.

Thanks for asking and good luck.

2 Likes
#6

Is there a kiosk for donating? I haven’t done that process before, but I’ve paid for weld time so I’m familiar with that.

#7

There’s a black tombstone under the iPad by the lathes. Put your money in an envelope and drop it in there with your name and “sanding sleeve” or the like.

1 Like
#8

So this might be hard to explain but hopefully I can, when people paint cars they go left one pass stop painting once they’ve moved past the object start going right start painting just before they get to the object and then stop once they’ve passed the object the reason being is if they continually painted the part where they switch directions would get more paint causing un evenness, now the point of all this is the sanders the same way in reverse it removes more material in the middle section than it does at the top and bottom of the stroke, which I why some people find it hard to control when using to remove materal, so to be able to use it accurately you have to take this into account and move you piece less when it’s at the top and bottom, it’s extremely hard to master but if you can you can use the tool very precisely, also I’d recommend looking in the bin finding the specs of the spindle papers and buying your own online cause the ones we have are like 100-80 grit so they’re just going to eat material away I’d get ones in the 240 grit range and that’ll give you more time to get the tolerance just right and not eat though

#9

The spindle sander worked perfectly. Gentle hands and sneaking up on the line I scribed was super easy. I just had to tickle it with the spindle and it cleaned up beautifully. Converting the center hole was a challenge but it also went really well. Tomorrow I’ll be glueing the new veneer :grin:

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#10

Alternatively I’m considering a hydrographic… We’ll see though.

#11

Thatd be really cool, what would you use to seal it? I’m not sure what they used to seal wood dash inlays in cars from the factory but that would 1 look nice and 2 keep it nice and sealed for to keep the hydro dipping to effect it, especially cause veneering the curves around the edge without it peeling is the task for a master to get get right

#12

Either a 2k clearcoat rattlecan from Eastwood or just some epoxy like I used on my last project. Very easy to mix, pour, and self level into a super glossy finish. Also very easy to cleanup the epoxy from the holes with a couple bits and a return to the spindle sander. I’ll figure it out in time. I’ll likely try veneer first since I’ve already got some walnut burl.

#13

Nice work.

1 Like
#14

Nice, yea that 2k is the best stuff you’ll ever see come out of a rattle can, for all intensive purposes identical (almost) to a 4K 2 part! Looks amazing so far definitely post pic of it installed

#15

Awesome job, that bad ass…

1 Like
#16

Nobody has asked yet - What car? :smiley:

#17

If I was a betting man, I’d say his classic mini.

4 Likes
#18

That’s what it looks like to me as well

#19

EDIT,* I looked at the gauges made in Uk so defiantly not Ford, mini it is

#20

Indeed this goes to my classic Mini :grin:

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