Update on using a "Cold Saw" (not to be confused with a wet Cold Cut Saw)

Metal Shop
#1

As I have been corrected, what I call a “Cold Saw” is really a Dry Cut Saw. Has a blade with teeth but uses no lubricant to cool the cut.

I have used the dry chop saw for awhile and would like to report what I’ve learned so far.

First, I love it and will never go back to an abrassive saw. It cuts Metal clean creating tight good looking joints. The metal is cold to the touch after the cut, thus the reason I call it a “Cold Saw”. (Everybody I know calls it that too). Correctly used, the blades last for many cuts getting your money’s worth.

The bad, but easily handled, is that it’s really loud, but then again so is the abrasive saw. The blades are really expensive. Lastly and most importantly, if not used right, you can burn out a blade quickly and throw teeth thus getting real expensive. I’ve watched a few folks use the abrassive saw and the amount of heavy-handed crank put on some of those cuts would ruin a cold saw blade quickly.

I had thought this would be a good addition to the Metal Shop, but after using it awhile, I’m not sure it would work at DMS. It might get very expensive.

My solution, when I have a bunch of cuts I want to do at DMS, I’ll bring my saw with me and/or use the machine shop Wet Saw.

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#2

Thank you for sharing. I believe I was among those interested in your opinion once you bought it. I’m sold on these devices, but you’re likely right about its fit in this environment. That doesn’t make me happy, but my happiness has no bearing cold, harsh reality.

Curious to know: my understanding is that these use carbide teeth. Have you personally or vicariously tried sharpening, or having sharpened, a used blade? I know it works well for woodsaws, and they’ll even replace lost teeth, but I don’t know on these beasties…

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#3

Interesting. Is there something (the material, dimensions, size/shape, etc.) you feel your “dry chop saw” is more appropriate for than using either a band saw or the “wet” Cold saw?

#4

I am just wondering which dry cut saw you have as I am looking to buy one for my house and I have it narrowed down to a couple. Thanks

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#5

Pretty sure this link tells all…
https://talk.dallasmakerspace.org/t/anybody-bought-cool-new-tools-lately/17015?u=jast

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#6

Yes - you are absolutely right. You can do all of this for about $20 or so. I’ve got one I will get done and report back on how good or not it performs.

You know what, I’ve been thinking about this more today and I’ve changed my mind a bit on this. I’m thinking that a dry saw would work well in the shop, but with one change. That would be to treat the blades as a consummable. Every user needs to buy their own blade and just remove it after they are done. That way if they abuse it, it’s their money and not DMS’. Just like the polisher. What would happen is the serious user would use it and the casual user would only use the abrasive.

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#7

Yes - it is the Ironton from Northern Tool. I’m happy with it. I don’t use it daily, but I think it would last if I did. Right now, I’m designing and developing a jigging device to get compound cuts out of it.

What saws are you looking at?

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#8

For me, it’s a cheap home option and secondly, I dislike abrassive saws for cutting what I’m looking to do. The cuts are cool to the touch and there are no burrs (really nice). Thus, better fits on my miters…

The wet saw the machine shop has, is very nice but too expensive for a hobbyist. It’s also not portable and a proximity issue with the Metal Shop. Nothing drastic for sure, just inconvenient if you have a lot of cuts.

I’m just sold on a cold chop saw as a better tool to cut precision miters, etc. that offers the flexibility I like.

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