Can’t do it tonight. I should be able to swing by sometime this weekend, if you’re around. If not, no big deal. Also, if you’re interested, I do have an extra bottle you might like!
Definitely down for the bottle!
I usually don’t go in on the weekend.
Friday night might ba a possibility.
Schedules a little in flux right now, so I can’t guarantee it. If I do end up heading up there, I’ll give you a message. If not, then we’ll schedule for another time. Like I said, this is not something super urgent or time sensitive
1 Like
Fair enough.
Keep me posted
Sam is the chair. Chris is the vice chair.
What issues are you having? Is it wired backwards or nothing happening at all? Make sure your trailer ground wire is grounded to the frame.
Do you have a multimeter? You can at least backprobe to id the power and ground wires on the car side. I can leave a backprobe needle for you in automotive if you need to borrow one.
Agreed. Splice, solder, and heat shrink tubing will take 30 mins longer initially, but will save loads of frustration down the line.
I just had to rewire the lights on my flatbed trailer last fall, and replaced the factory installed (!) scotch connectors which had failed after three years.
2 Likes
They make heat-shrink splices with a low temp solder preform. do a wire twist splice, heat the tube to shrink and reflow the solder all in one operation. The shrink tubes have some soft adhesive on the ends that improves the overall seal.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
1 Like
Having seen one of those dissected after install, I’m not adding them to my set of solutions. Likely better than the scotch locks, but not as close to a proper solder joint as one would hope.
It’s a matter of quality of application clean wire and the right amount of heat the are indistinguishable from high temp solder. I’ve been using them for years, but i also usually buy Raychem and now the cheap stuff for important applications.