Tips for cutting leather on lasers?

Also @Team_Laser

Is there a comprehensive guide for what to do and what not to do when cutting leather on the lasers? I’ve seen some talk threads but is there a one-stop shop?

Particularly: What’s the best way to to minimize charring? Is Chrome-Tan safe to cut or will it cause noxious gases that will melt my face like the Nazis at the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark?

If no such comprehensive consolidated listing exists… If someone wanted to compile such a list, would one put it on the CA / Leather wiki page, or on the Laser wiki?

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I think @Webdevel is working on a “leather for lasers” class.

I don’t have anything else helpful to say other than I hear it stinks. :stuck_out_tongue:

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Veg-tanned leather only.
No Chrome-Tan.

Laser has a materials page.
Imitation Leather is on the Hateful Eight “Never Cut These Materials” list, as a chlorine emitter.
Real Leather is on the Safe-ish Materials list, with the above advice about veg-tan vs Chrome tan.

https://dallasmakerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials

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Only literally. Not figuratively. :smiley:

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Well… now I see it. Thanks :smiley:

I can’t log in to edit the Wiki from work but I think “chrome-tanned leather” deserves a place on the “do not cut” list instead of a mention on the “ok to cut” list.

Haha yes it does. Gotta remember to wait a bit before opening the lid

How can you tell if leather is veg vs chrome tanned? I have a bunch of leather that’s unlabeled.

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what thickness are you planning to cut?
With veg-tanned the biggest mistake people make is trying to cut it all at once. You get a lot of char. JUST BECAUSE the laser can do 100 watts doesn’t mean you need to set it to 100 watts all the time. Cutting shapes and wallet backs on mine using 3 oz leather - It is usually two passes (50 watts at 20% max speed). really cuts cleanly. It will vary on the thunders so you’ll have to experiment. Something I have done is to dye and finish the leather before cutting (not always possible). the finish acts as a barrier and any soot can just be wiped off with good ol’ pledge cleaner. this works on wood too. I’m not a fan of masking with tape. It just seems to act as a soot trap under the tape but your mileage may vary.

I have cut up to 10 oz thickness in multiple passes to cut down on the smoke damage. Make a cut, raise the table a smidge and then rinse and repeat. Oh yeah, stinks like death so make sure the exhaust is going. Some smell is still going to escape.

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added to do not cut list.
Did not fiddle with “ok to cut”; might as well say it twice…

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I always case my veg tan leather before cutting it on the laser.

Wet your leather until it’s completely we but not dripping wet. (vague much?)

Set it flat on a table and leave it until the outside is dry"ish" but not the inside. It should feel cold to the touch.

Then cut it on the laser.

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Vegetable tan leather is a light tan color. It’s the leather that looks … “raw”.

Chrome tan leather typically looks finished, already dyed, and comes in many colors and finishes.

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for the record - chrome tan CAN be laser cut or engraved. It is more difficult since the chromium salts absorb the wavelength/heat so it typically takes more power or more passes. this affects the leather as it tends to curl up. the leather always rasters a darker brown color. The laser committee may not allow the use of chrome tan so check with the in-house experts.

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Madame Chairperson of Laser covered whether or not they allow chrome tan a few replies up I believe, seemed like a hard no to me. What’s the benefits of using laser to cut leather though? Just accuracy of cuts, doesn’t it singe the edges pretty much always though?

Speed and accuracy if you are cutting a bunch of the same shape. I used it to cut a dozen circles much quicker and cleaner than I could by hand. I also used the laser to add text in the middle of them.

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Chrome tanned is grey unless dyed. Veg-tanned is a flashy tan unless died. Vegtan will absorb water readily. Chrome tan won’t. Gets more difficult if additional processes like oiling and/or waxing is done. “Oiled Leather”,for example, is usually chrome tanned then oiled to darken and make more supple. Latigo leather is first chrome tanned then veg tanned (and therefore not good for lasering).

If buying from a vendor, ask them.

To cut down on char, you can wet the vegtan thoroughly, dry off any surface moisture, and laser while still wet. Minimizes char and edge stiffness. If planning to tool, let dry until ready, then tool.

Let dry completely before dying or sewing.

One nice thing about layering leather is that you can pre-drill the stitching holes and get them very even. I make 1/100” (0.01”) diameter circles where I want a stitch hole. Laser, then widen with a sewing awl and get very nice, straight stitches on both pieces to be sewn.

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Yep…pretty much. But the blackened edges can be lightly sanded and/or then washed and/or then saddle soaped, depending on your need/use.

Right, @Webdevel, @nicksilva, @HankCowdog ? I wouldn’t want to inadvertently mislead.

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I cut wet and wash off the edges under running water after cutting while still wet. This removes the burnt hair smell from lasering leather.

If you do this, likely no sanding is needed afterwards. Note that I offen use an edge beveler which removes some of the cut edge to round the leather edge. I also burnish the edge using water and saddle soap and a wooden burnisher to compress the fibers, stiffen, and polish the edge.

Off topic somewhat, but FWIW I like water and saddle soap (or even just water) for burnishing edges. I tried gum tagaranth but never had good luck with it (wrong technique, perhaps?)

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For now 2 to 4 oz for some wallets. When I hand cut pieces I try to finish first because dying and drying tends to change the shape and size enough to irritate me, so I’ll probably do the same with the laser. That’s good to know about tape- I had been wondering that.

That was gonna be my next question - what about oil tan. I have some of this
http://springfieldleather.com/Zulu-Suntan-Oil-Tan-Side-3-4-oz-
that my daughter wants me to make her a clutch out of. But the web site doesn’t say how it’s tanned. Guess I’ll be emailing them.

I have linked this thread to Laser’s Tips and Tricks section on the wiki. Worth saving. Thank you all. Carry on.

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