Based on my advice from a good friend I am strongly thinking about this printer.
before I buy it though I really want to make sure I have some help getting it set up. What accessories might I need to go with it?
It’s a good option though it’ll be ~1 hour of work to get it assembled and then more to get it tuned in and calibrated. At least that’s how long it took me to do.
Alyssa has said she’ll do it.
I got the Ender 3 Pro that was on sale at Microcenter last month. Took about 45 minutes to assemble (watched a ton of youtubes beforehand), and mine printed really well right off the bat. I tweaked the Cura slicer settings for the PLA I was starting with and the results were a very nearly perfect Benchy.
I bought a bunch of upgrades for it, but my research said it’s better to get at least 100 hours on the stock machine before changing anything, so you learn what the ‘normal’ patterns are.
It’s a great machine and I’m really enjoying mine. Have fun!
DD
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Alyssa assembled my Ender 3 for me. I don’t think I’m gonna be able to use that little SD card to program the printer so my next step is to figure out what I can do in the way of a computer interface that I can access from my desktop. I have enough money leftover to buy yet another computer, the question is is is if this is the right thing to do? I guess the next step is to learn how to use Cura to slice with. I am open to any and all advice on how to use this printer. One thing I know for certain is the threading of the filament needs major work. There is no way in hades I can’t thread this printer with one hand. What I really need right now is learning websites I can access.
I don’t have a way to access the micro SD card. Where can I download a version of cura that is already configured for the Ender 3?
PrusaSlicer is a much better option IMHO and it has advanced far further and faster than Cura. There are profiles for your printer along with many others.
Here are some of the profiles available directly inside the software.
Assuming the Ender 3 can be driven via serial (USB) it could be run through Pronterface which comes with PrusaSlicer (or a stand alone download).
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Cura when you install it has a setup menu with the brands & models.
Rather than buying a dedicated PC for running the printer, consider getting a Raspberry Pi and setting it up as a printer server running OctoPrint. You can then upload files from you existing PC using the OctoPrint Web interface and if you spring for the Pi Camera, you can monitor the print progress even if the printer is in another room.
As a plus, it’s a cheap way to go and since is the same setup that DMS uses, the learning curve is minimal.
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I think I have figured it out. By the end of the week I will know if I have. The only real problem I see in the near future is how to load this damn printer with filament. Until then I will just use the PLA spool that Alyssa loaded for me until it is used up.
I’ll move my laptop next to this machine and see if I can control it that way. If I have established I can, I will try to figure something else out, since I use my laptop for many other jobs.
What software can I use to control this printer either through the network or locally, I would rather not use the front panel on the printer. I definitely prefer a keyboard and monitor.
OctoPrint. Runs on Linux/Raspian, Windows, Mac O/S. OctoPrint.org - Download & Setup OctoPrint
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My offer still stand for a pi3b for her. I’ll pm alyssa see if she is headed back over anytime soon
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So I’ve been printing plastic, nothing major, Mostly replacement parts for things I have broken over the years. One thing about being a data packrat, I still have every .stl I’ve ever made,
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@Wendy ::
I haven’t yet come up with any ideas to make the filament loading easier, but a temporary solution might be to order the really big spools which would let you print for much longer than the standard sized reels, until we can figure out a loading workaround or design something specific to make the process much easier for you.
@Wendy ::
Question: Is the major issue with loading the filament the spring-loaded lever on the extruder, or the hand/arm force needed to shove the filament thru the Bowden tube through the hot end. Or a combination of the two, perhaps?
If it’s the former, you could use a squeeze clamp that could be applied to the lever to hold the feeder jaws open while you thread the filament through the jaws.
I’ve noticed there’s a sweet spot for the lever that will allow easier threading. You’d think having it as wide open as possible would be optimum, but it’s not.
And if the issue is the force it takes to shove the filament down and through th hot end, perhaps it’s possible to get the filament into the jaws as mentioned above, but then to turn on the printer and bring the nozzle up to temp, and use the manual control settings to advance the filament down the tube and into the hot end. Not sure if that’s possible, but I will try it out on my machine and post a short video to demonstrate the process, if it works.
Which of your hands is dominant? Thanks.
DD
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Only my right hand works, left side of my body is paralyzed. I have a long way to go before I put a dent into my current spool of PLA. I’m thinking a Harbor Freight plastic clamp might help with the filament clamp.
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I’ve heard good things about the Flash Forge Adventurer 3. The Adventurer 3 Pro has a camera. The only downside with the 3 vs the 4 is that the 3 has a smaller than standard filament spool, so most people set the spool outside the printer on a spool rack. The 4 is a little bit bigger and more expensive.
Thanks @Wendy! I haven’t forgotten about you; just super busy at the moment.
I did some experiments using only my right hand and the squeeze clamp idea looks like it might just be viable. But I need to modify and weaken the spring. Once I have it working I’ll shoot a video for you and post it and then bring you the clamp so you can try it out. Might be a little while though, but not that long, as I am finally catching up a bit.
Back in touch as soon as I’m able.
DD
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