I would like to put a recipe inside a casserole dish can this be done with sublimation or by firing in ceramics. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1188710359/engraved-baking-dish-personalized?click_key=3ba59cab670f950e51be10c7982f256109fed1ca%3A1188710359&click_sum=1560d451&external=1&ref=hp_opfy-1-1&pro=1&sts=1
I read the description, and they used a laser to get that. They probably used a technique similar to the tiles that @cmcooper0 's husband and she made. It’s the example on the wall right outside the old galley/kitchen, on the far left.
If I remember right, they painted the tiles with iron oxide, and ran the laser to sinter the powder. It produced black lines.
I would need it to be food safe a few examples I’ve seen are fired in ceramics with a glaze. I’m more interested in that method.
Thanks
Leslie
Then paint it on with black underglaze, and then coat with clear. Well, white underglaze for the piece, then the lettering in black. You can then either let it dry completely and gently add 2 coats of clear, or fire the underglaze to a bisque temp, then glaze and fire at glaze temps.
Can I use waterslide decal and then reglaze?
Sure. If you have a waterslide decal.
Would you be able to explain the process?
Not really. I’ve done it once. Our expert moved to El Paso. Maybe someone else will know. Although, @Liamluu teaches a class where you print a transfer and apply it to pottery…
Waterslide decals can only be fired to cone 4, I believe.
Edited to add that I found this in a search:
- Firing cone: The firing cone depends on the decal, the desired shade, and the kiln’s firing characteristics. For example, a colored decal may be fired to cone 015, while a black and white decal may be fired to cone 04.
- Ventilation: Ensure the kiln is well ventilated, especially during the early stages of firing.
- Firing speed: Fire the decals slowly, especially below 500°F.
- Kiln temperature: If the kiln fires too hot, fire at a lower temperature to avoid burning out the decal.
- Drying time: Allow the piece to dry at room temperature for 24 hours before firing.
- Covercoat: A covercoat can be made using a light-colored china paint, flux, or clear glaze mixed with mineral or baby oil.
- Image contrast: For best contrast, use a light-colored glaze, with white being best for photographs.
Hi!
I’m one of the dye sublimation teachers.
TLDR: Dye sub is not suitable for a baking dish. @dryad2b 's suggestion to use an underglaze stencil is the right way to go.
.
Why?
Surfaces to receive dye sublimation must be coated with a polyester coating. So you’re gonna spray the inside of a ceramic dish with a polyester spraypaint.
We then print polyester dye onto paper, and heat everything to 400degrees.
The ink in the paper turns to gas, and dyes the polyester spray.
If the item is ever heated that hot again, the dye will steam off, making the picture fade and become blurry.
So… 1. there’s a good chance the spray will scrape off with use.
2. there’s a good chance the dye will turn into gas and go into the food.
3. I highly doubt any of it is food grade (though polyester itself isn’t Toxic- like a gum wrapper isn’t toxic- but that doesn’t make good eats.)
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Hello, you can buy the clear firing film from Amazon. You will need to print the decals with a printer that has an iron oxide based ink printer.
My printer has been in storage for about a year. If you need the make and model let me know I’ll dig it up for you.
I had used my decals a lot in the microwave with small glass cabochons. You have to be really mindful of how hot it gets in the microwave as it will burn off.
For ceramics check the firing temp on the film packaging it should be compatible with the overglaze firing temps they do at DMS.
The color will turn out dark brown/brown since this is iron based ink.
You should easily find info on YouTube. There is a good paperback booklet on the subject.
If I remember correctly, the waterslide decal class that Christi taught was used on already fired (bisqued) or pre-purchased items from stores like Walmart or Dollar Tree. They were then fired at low-fire.
If you are making your own decals, just follow the directions provided by the paper manufacturer. To make sure it remains food safe, you will need to cover the decal with clear glaze. Some manufacturers say their underglaze decals are food safe if fired to Cone 6, which is the cone that DMS kilns generally are fired.
Yes I saw a video on youtube and you use the waterslide decal then refire after coating with clear glaze.
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