Small Metal/Plastic Part Manufacturing Help

I’m working on tearing down and repairing my wife’s iron (this one here: and it has these cool feet that “automagically” deploy when you let go of it by using your hand capacitance.

Well, it took a bit of a tumble off the table, and afterwards when you release the handle instead of the feet deploying it makes sad robot noises.

This part was damaged, HAAS Domino for scale:

From the feel of it, I think the plastic is glass fiber reinforced (it scratches when you try to scrape on it) and it looks like it was molded onto the metal rod. The rod looks like some stainless, and since it’s maybe a 1/4" from the heating element I’m thinking the plastic is some sort of high temp stuff.

Now the question is, how do I fix it? I would try super glue as a first try, but it’s high temp and I’m afraid super glue may release as the temps it will be exposed to (obviously, the iron causes steam rapidly, so it’s well above 200F).

Should I try to machine out multiple parts and then weld them together or should I play with some 4 jaw chuck madness to get the cam portion done?

I think I’ve got enough skill to do it in three parts (the drive dogs on the roughly penny sized diameter, a carefully sized diameter shaft which rides in a channel for driving the first leg, and then the short rod to connect up to the larger rod) and then weld them all together.

I’d love to CAD it out and 3D print it, but I think it will be too high temp for ABS and I know it will be too high temp for PLA. Also, this area does have steam and water ingress, so it’s not exactly a good place to use plastic that doesn’t have some sort of strengthen like glass fiber IMO. Also, on the 3D printing camp they’ll be finding a way to affix it to the steel rod without using superglue.

Other options on the table are bin the iron (which is sad as it’s been serving my wife well until it failed) or convert it to a non-magic model and just use an iron stand (I’d rather bin it than admit failure jk).

@procterc, @TBJK, @Chris_Wischkowsky, @hon1nbo or any other Machine Shop peeps, I’d love some advice on manufacturing.

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Jk, I’m a clutz. Please help!


Irons don’t need legs! You’re a mad man!

What about hi temp resin 3 D print?

That could do it. I’m not signed off on the resin printer, but I’m willing to learn. You think it would stand up as well as glass fiber plastic? I’m not as familiar with resin printing or what resins we have in stock at DMS.

Also, how do I attach it to the rod? One of the advantages of doing this out of stainless was that I can TIG it together and not need to worry about glues.

The spec sheet shows 7 to 8 thousand psi ultimate tensile strength and o temp limit of about 400F.
Press fit possibly.

Drill, pin it & then epoxy it together. That would almost always be my first step.

Do you mean drill and epoxy the current part? I’m not sure there’s enough meat in the part for the drilling I can do at home, not that I could machine anything at home anyway.

Or did you mean drill and pin then epoxy the resin?

Also, what type of epoxy did you mean?

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I’d recommend JB Weld - it’s designed for patching metal and for fairly high temps. It’s also sandable/machinable if you need to clean things up afterwards.

From a quick Google search:

J-B Weld Original is steel reinforced, has a tensile strength of 5020 PSI and can withstand temperatures up to 550 degrees Fahrenheit (287 degrees Celsius). When fully cured, J-B Weld Original is waterproof and resistant to petroleum, chemical and acid.


I have really small drill bits that I use. I would drill a couple corresponding holes. Then put pins in it to align the parts & add some more shear strength. Epoxy that sucker together. Between the pins and epoxy, you should have almost as good as new part. You could also cut some slots in it to give the epoxy more surface area and subsequent shear strength.

Day 12 in exile -
Home tool abuse modifications begin.
Break it.
Make it better. :wink: