Simple Workbench

I’m about to build a simple stationary workbench in the corner of my garage. Basically, I’m building the one in the link below, as it fits my current storage needs and plan (with the additon of a second lower shelf)…and only 20” deep (cars have to fit)

Here’s my question: I’m going to use cheap lumber from Home Depot…should I bother milling it down, or just get the straightest pieces possible and put it together?

This is placer holder until we buy a new house in 3 years…I have a work bench on casters that will create an “L” and a 3/4” piece of plywood and saw horses I breakout when I need a bigger space in the middle of the garage when the cars do not need to be parked inside.

Anything I should consider before I pick up lumber and do this? Note: I can’t see being happy putting it together with a nailer as in the video, so I’ll use cabinet screws. I’m also going to use two layers of 3/4” plywood for the top.

A 1.5" top will let you use bench dogs. That’s pretty handy. You can even reinforce with a 2’*4’ if you need under the table. MDF works fine too. Adds heft. I put a sacrificial layer of tempered hardboard on mine.

If you mill the lumber, you will be happier just knowing you went an extra step. :grin:

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Though if you go with prime lumber, and hand pick, you probably will be in pretty good shape without further milling. And most 2x4 is milled with very rounded corners. If you wanted to get it to a crisp rectangle, you would lose a lot of size and stiffness.

But yeah, double layer of 3/4 ply is a nice top for lots of reasons, including mounting vises.

It’s those round corners to bother me, lol

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I built this exact one, took 8 hours or so in my garage with a reciprocating saw. Wasn’t picky on my lumber, total cost was like $80?

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@talkers How would you secure the two 3/4” pieces of MDF to one another? Glue or fasteners?

Clayton, I used wood glue to laminate the 2 pieces of MDF for my bench top. Note the routered grooves I made to insert threaded rods to hold the table tight. It’s pretty much bomb-proof now.

The great thing about MDF on my table is, you can flip it over and use the bottom once the top gets too worn (see pic. of the L-bracket fasters holding the MDF underneath the table). And you can always replace the top with a brand new set of cheap MDF anytime.

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How to build a strong, si ole workbench.

This video shows how mine is made. It is an amazing workbench for a 1 weekend project. I HIGHLY recommend this plan. Note: I increased the width dimensions of this table by an extra foot, and it worked out great for my needs.

After clicking on the link, scroll through the video selections on the right side of the screen until you get to the 3rd one from the bottom. ‘How to build a Workbench’.

Scott

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Doesn’t get simpler than a 2x12 top screwed down onto stacked 2x4 legs. Total cost under $50, built in a little over an hour with a wobbly Black & Decker circular saw borrowed from my dad. It’s not pretty, but it does stand up to abuse.

Good enough for the girls I go out with anyway.

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also, if you go to home depot, look for a pile of wood in the back of lumber, that has some purple paint on it. that’s the discount section and it’s (i think) %70 off. you shouldbe able to get quite a lot of wood that you can use for the frame from there.

and i would agree @talkers, if you mill the top of the lumber so that the bench top sites snug, it looks so much better, but that is purely aesthetic, and has no structural value

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@Clayton
Glue or screw from underneath.
For the sacrificial layer of hardboard, I used double sided carpet tape.

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I use the crap out of mine lol

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So I’ve gotten the garage a little more rearranged. I’ve realized if I move the location of the soon to be built workbench to back of the garage, instead of the side, I can have a 30” deep workspace, and get two cars in, and open the doors, and keep all of my tools!

Now here my new dilemma. I need to make a choice:

  • install a 13’ - 14’ workbench along the length of the wall. This will be 37” tall to allow me to have a rollaway workshop. Mitersaw will be situated to allow 8’ of stock to the left. Tabletop drill press goes to right of the mitersaw. Leaves 6’ to the right because of the doorway to the house.
  • install a 10’ workbench, but match it’s height to the rollaway tablesaw…30” - 32” tall, but can be used to support the miter saw out feed to the right if ever needed. Mitersaw and drill press is situatied as in the first bullet.
  • install a 10’ workbench, go back to 37” for rollaway tool carts. Leave the 3’ - 4’ for a bandsaw next year.

Thoughts? Here’s the rollaway table saw rig I intend to build.

What are the thoughts on how to frame out a work bench? Are there reinforcements to consider aside from bolting legs to the ladder frames? Since I’m doing a rollaway set up, I cannot do a ladder style across the whole bottom for support.

Maybe a diagonal brace on the legs to keep them from wobbling?

As far as attaching the double layer - screws are best, as John G. suggested. Why? because you then have a sacrificial top that can be replaced.

As to length? Whatever you do, build in modules! If, after use, you find you don’t like the way it is working out, you have multiple options (again, a sacrificial top comes in handy, cause you can tie units together.) Even if you put stuff on wheels, you want to have some way blocking them in place…like this drop-down wheel design. Have used and it works really well! https://www.pinterest.com/pin/161566705359243631/