Post must be at least 50 characters, so here they are.
I have been watching a lot of his videos.
As my old shop teacher used to lecture us, remember if you are buying hardened drills they are often only hardened at the tip. Sharpening a drill grinds off the hardened steel at the tip and the drill might be good in wood or soft metal but won’t last in steel.
I have a drill-master sharper I’d be willing to let the shop use for an afternoon of sharpening if you wanna borrow it. Let me know -
Does the drill master offer still stand?
sure does - it’s doing nothing in my garage but gathering dust. Machine shop is welcome to use it.
Let me know when & where
Generally machine shop doesn’t sharpen bits. If @nicksilva wants to change the course all ears, but there are a few problems with regrinds:
- tolerance is farther off
- any hardened coating is gone and the bit won’t be nearly as good for steel use
- we don’t have enough sorting for regrinds versus non-sharpened for those that need to stay within a margin.
If I were going to use one of the reamers for example, I’d like to know that the drill bit for the initial hole hasn’t been undersized besides normal wear
I don’t know about the Machine Shop, but I suspect the Wood Shop drill bits could all(?) use sharpening. They could also benefit from some sort of storage organization other than being thrown loosely into a drawer.
@Team_Woodshop are you interested?
Need more details, but yeah we’re interested
I can bring it by some time. Like I said - it’s just collecting dust in my workbench.
One was purchased with the new drill press. So the space has one now
Not necessarily…you are correct in what you say, but most drills that are made to drill through steel and harder materials are hardened from tip to shank. A correctly sharpened drill bit will still cut with ease through stainless