Hi Y’all. I got the trial version of SewArt64 to try making a simple patch. I find it very easy to get started, but when saving, the options for thread type and for hoop size have me a bit stumped. Should I just put in a hoop size that’s larger than my design, or should it match the hoops we have at the space?
Also, should I worry about the thread type?
I used to teach sign off for the machines at the space. I highly recommend you be up there with the machine and do some testing as you change things on your design. I made the mistake of spending a bunch of time at home making a design look great on screen only to try and stitch it and it looked not how I expected.
I concur with Beth about setting the size to one of the hoops at the space. For thread, pick something as close to what you think you’ll use. I don’t /think/ it matters too much aside from when you print the stitch out instructions it includes thread details on the layers. But definitely Chris knows more about designing
Even Chris runs a test of her designs. She had mentioned that she usually picks bright/contrasting colors for her first run-through, so that she knows where the design is putting each color.
Thank you both for the advice, I’ll make some time to come up this weekend. Maybe if I install it on my laptop I’ll get a new 30 days of trial on the software.
Almost forgot – since the Viking SE is so old, it only takes small flash drives. It came with a 32 meg. Although, the original flash drive should be in the … thing that fits over the free arm. That may be in the cabinet with the embroidery threads and such. Paul was moderately certain that you should be able to use a 1 gig flash drive. No guarantees here. If the flash drive is too big for the software, it can’t find the end and it won’t read the drive.
Select the smallest “standard” hoop size that your design will fit into (for example, 4x4). When you actually stitch the design, you will tell the sewing machine what size hoop you are using. It will allow you to select all designs for that hoop size or smaller.
Don’t worry about the thread type - it’s only asking you about the thread brand. When SewArt generates a color chart it will use colors from that brand but of course you can use any thread regardless of what the color chart says. If you plan to use the DMS thread, then select Sulky Rayon as the thread brand and that will give you a head start figuring out your thread colors.
Other tips:
FILE FORMATS:
Save your stitch file as one of the Viking formats (HUS or VP3). (The default is PES.) While the Viking will read most or all of the file formats it doesn’t like them as much.
Also be forewarned about the first stitch. When you stitch SewArt files on the Viking it tries to put the first stitch of each layer in the same location as the last stitch of the prior layer. This is an undesirable artifact. To work around it, when you begin stitching a layer, advance to stitch 2.
ARTWORK:
If you use an SVG file as your artwork, you will have a much cleaner starting point than jpeg or anything else.
SVGs that come from Inkscape are scaled correctly. SVGs that come from Illustrator are not. If you’re using Illustrator, import the AI file into Inkscape and then save that as SVG.
Make sure the first thing you do in SewArt is size your image correctly. Any time you resize you have to start everything all over again.
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Ah that’s good to know. I’ve been designing in Inkscape and exporting to pngs, but if it comes out cleaner as an svg then that lets me skip a step.
I assume the different layers are for different colors? For now I’m just working in black and white and not bothering to stitch the white background, but good to know when I inevitably get the urge.
Yes, the SewArt layers are for different colors. You could use more than one layer for the same color depending on your stitching order (for instance, you might stitch a black section first, then some other layers, then the top layer might be a black outline).
So as I’m messing with the files again in SewArt64, the svg file looks more choppy and pixelated than the png I exported from it, but I assume this isn’t a good representation of the finished product, right?
The first thing I would ask is how you got the svg file. Did you author your image in Inkscape? If so you should have a vector image that will export cleanly. If, however, you imported a png file into Inkscape then your “clunkiness” might come from that import process.
SewArt, in general, isn’t good at dealing with small areas. (For that matter, no embroidery program is). Even if you have a true svg vector image, if you have small stuff you’re going to see choppiness - both on the screen and in the finished product.
Jpeg and possibly png offer anti-aliasing that are going to make the screen representation look better but are not going to improve the stitching file. The SVG file may be giving you a truer representation of what it’s going to stitch.
Where you should see an improvement using svg is in the number of colors. If you are NOT using svg, then when you use the (SewArt) Reduce Colors command you will see that the areas around color transitions are actually a bunch of colors that you don’t really want. In B&W you would likely see several shades of grey. When you are using svg you will have only the discrete colors that you intended.
Ah yes, the color simplicity thing was immediately clear to me, so I went with svg in the end.
I did start with a jpg that I imported into Inkscape, then I used the Trace Bitmap feature to grab the black image off the white background, and resized that before adding a circle border and saving.
Use the applique function in SewArt for the border. Applique will be the first thing you will do in your stitch sequence. It will automatically generate three layers:
Marking layer. It stitches a line to show where your patch fabric will go. (After it stitches this, place your patch fabric in place. If you can pre-cut the patch fabric either manually or by laser you will like those results better because you won’t have frayed edges. Lightly affix your patch fabric using spray fabric adhesive or a bit of iron-on glue like StitchWitchery).
Tacking layer. It stitches a line directly over layer 1 to hold the patch fabric in place. This will be some odd color on the opposite of the color wheel - just to force the program to generate another layer - but you will keep using the same thread. If you are using a rough block of fabric, carefully cut the fabric outline now without removing anything from the hoop.
Outline layer. It stitches a satin stitch border (or whatever you choose) over the fabric.
Confirmed 16Gb sticks will work. I just purchased and tested a 16Gb stick from Walmart ($4, Onn brand) successfully. It’s now in the top drawer in the orange wood cabinet under the table.
When I try putting the applique first, my border shape seems to always have a chunk that’s not getting the stitch applied to it. However, when I add the applique after a fill stitch, it doesn’t have that issue. The circle is just a circle I added in inkscape around the biang character, so I’m not sure why it would cause a problem.
I can’t explain it. Unfortunately SewArt isn’t the most robust of programs and sometimes just has unexplainable artifacts. I’ve seen this sort of thing too. I’m glad you figured out a workaround - I’ll make a mental note to use that myself. Thanks!