“The Jug” in the back is the “extra” resin. The Form 2 fills the tank/tray automatically from “the jug”. The resin in the “jug” and the tray must be of the same type, the Form 2 reads chips embedded in both to confirm the correct resin types are loaded. I don’t remember the IP offhand, but if it is online and network connected, PreForm ought to find it automatically, the name of the printer in on a tag on the back side of the printer. You can find the IP of the printer through the touch screen menus on the printer.
After printing, you take the build plate with the printed item still attached and place it in the wash tank. After washing you remove the item from the build plate. Supports are highly configurable as to the size of the attachment point and the number created. The idea is to minimize the number and size required AND have them on surfaces that don’t show (as much). While the nubs left from the supports are small, they do require some quick sanding to cleanup but nothing like what you have to do with FDM printers. There is quite an art to orienting models to minimize the amount of supports needed while also avoiding cups.
Here’s a couple pics of small evil pumpkins I printed that I haven’t cleaned up yet other than removing the supports:
Also, unlike FDM printers, SLA printers print SOLID by default. So to save on resin and print time, you should hollow out all models and provide proper drain holes to allow un-cured resin to drain out (like the above).
After washing, you can then post cure it, however the MakerSpace’s cure station is pretty much fubar (it doesn’t heat up properly). For doing mini’s I’d suggest using the grey resin (like the pics above), it gives great detail and needs the least amount of curing. It is easy to cure gray resin just by putting in sun light for a few minutes. Grey resin is advertised to not even need curing, which is true to a point. But without post curing, it will remain slightly sticky and with a soft surface for a few days until it is exposed to enough ambient UV to finish curing it naturally.
Once washed, post cured and support nubs cleaned, you can go straight to priming and painting. The above pics show models that have been washed and cured but nothing else and you can see there is no other cleanup needed. The model was printed at 50 microns. I have my own Form 2 now, but before I bought mine I used the MakerSpace’s, be aware that the resin tray IS A CONSUMABLE! As the tray nears it lifetime, the quality of the print will decrease dramatically so inspect the tray before use for scratches or a lot of cloudiness, it should be fairly clear. Also, since most people are lazy, they print their items in the center of the build platform, causing it to wear quickly. Therefore, place your models close to the edges to try and get a clear portion of the tray. Also, run a spatula through the resin in the tray prior to printing to ensure there aren’t any broken off pieces of cured resin it, they will screw up your print.
