Pine is not allowed thru planer or jointer?

Question?
Overheard a member correct another member and said Pine dulls blades and is not allowed thru planer or jointer ? Just wanted to confirm, I do learn something new everyday …

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That is correct . Southern yellow pine has too much sap that clogs and dulls blades. I’m looking for a piece of such lumber to add googly eyes to it and hand it by the planer and jointer to remind user to not feed them to those machines

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Thank you, did not know that and just was curious. Maybe it needs to be posted on the machines?

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And, please note that it’s only the Southern Yellow Pine that’s an issue. Other pine may be acceptable.

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Anybody who can distinguish the different types of pines will know not to run it through, so as a general rule its best to just say pine is a no go, and imo it’s shouldn’t be allowed through the drum sander either

But saying blanket no pine sort of implies that white wood labeled SFP, that could be Spruce, Fir, or White Pine would also be banned, as they are much more difficult to tell apart from each other than from SYP. And white pine generally does not have the problems with the excessive pitch gumming up the cutters.

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This is a ridiculous way to view rules. Rules are specific for a reason.

As a general rule the best way to have rules followed is to explain the reasoning behind them. Explaining to somebody that SYP can gum up the tools (which would then need to be cleaned) is the most helpful since they can then extrapolate and explain the rule to others as well.

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Those wood have historically given proboblems, in the past, not as gummy, but I’ve personally seen 2 saw stop trips cause wet home depot white wood, I’ve seen planner shoots get clogged from wet white wood, which isn’t a big deal just clear all the shavings out but still I think a general no pine rule is best

Yea absolutely, so I’ll put you down for the non stop shift of attending the plainer and jointer to help inform anybody about to use it, and explain pine to them, the blanket rules is meant to keep people from doing it when there’s nobody around, everytime I see someone about to use it I do take them time to show them and explain why but the amount of times someone’s there to do so when they go to use it is an unbelievably small percentage of time that it occurs

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I’ve seen people run 2x4s through them. Is there a good source of 2x4’s that you can actually make nice and square?

As long as they’re the correct moister content like 8-10% than any wood can be made perfectly square, but the issue with 2x4 is they often times are extremely wet say in the 15-20% range which means if you put all the effort into milling them square when that 5-10% moister evaporates it’ll cause the wood to move and depending on what the grain is like it could be slight movement or it could be drastic, so it more so comes down to if the wood is properly dry than the type of wood when trying to get it milled perfectly

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So how would one get them dry? Just leave them out a while and wait?

The rule isn’t general though, its SYP, and it was voted on so lets not confuse people by saying the rule is all pine.

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If they are that that wet, that’s pretty much what is needed. You could hurry things along by taking advantage of a sunny hot day, buying a dehumidified and putting it in an enclosed area (e.g. closet), or taking it to someone with a wood-drying kiln (e.g. Lloyd Plum here on TALK).

But Lowes Depot does sell kiln-dried whitewood framing/construction lumber like what you are talking about…this is an obvious need as when framing a house you can’t have a bunch of wood warping on you.

And, as general good practice, once you get something square, if you are ready to do whatever joining/gluing/fitting into place that you have in mind, the more structural support the newly squared-up wood will have to hopefully prevent any further movement (e.g. think of a 2x4 length that would like to bow but is held straight by a bunch of other pieces laminated together into as benchtop).

So maybe buy a piece, cut it to some appropriate lengths, square those up, and see what happens to them over course of a few days? Total cost = ~$4. Total work time invested = ~2 hours.

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When I was referencing the wet wood I was specifically talking about that lumber you mentioned

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I’ve never had any problems with 2x4s from Lowes or HD. They square up fine and look nice. Haven’t had issues with movement afterwords either. Just start with one that’s pretty straight to begin with already, of course.

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Me neither…and have used quite a bit over the years.

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Does this apply to 2x4s bought from big box stores?

I wasn’t saying it’s guaranteed doom if you use them, I drove around with a tekata airbaig in my car( seriously I did) and thankfully nothing ever happened but there’s still a very specific reason of things which could cause issues in some cases.
And this applies to any lumber everything from lumber yard homedepot and all the sorts in between if the moisture contents off then there’s a probability it could move in an undesirable way

Which do you prefer: Home Depot or Lowes?