PCB Mill Rebuild Progress

Electronics
#1

Walter and I spent several hours Sun.afternoon doing quick build of the mill and its associated electronics. The purpose was to test and get familiar with the following:

  1. test control board sftwr & hrdwr (http://synthetos.myshopify.com/products/tinyg)
  2. test mechanics of the mill and stepper motors
  3. test generating g-code files from gerber files (http://flatcam.org/)
  4. use generated g-code file to rough cut a simple board.

We didn’t have an end mill, so we used a broken drill bit. Not pretty, but it served the purpose. Pretty will come later. All in all a successful test run and much learned.

Partial list of remaining things to do:

  1. limit switches and homing
  2. calibration and fine tuning
  3. assembly, cabling, and final dress-out

Many thanks to Walter for time and research put into this project!

pcb mill rebuild_01.JPG2054×1155 506 KB

pcb mill rebuild_02.JPG2054×1155 558 KB

pcb mill rebuild_03.JPG2054×1155 361 KB

pcb mill rebuild_04.JPG2054×1155 367 KB

pcb mill rebuild_05.JPG2054×1155 440 KB

11 Likes
PCB router repair
Richardson Wireless Klub invites DMS - Call for Help
#2

Walter, where are your safety glasses?!?! :smiley:

7 Likes
#3

Is OK. Spindle wasn’t running while he’s giving the z axis the “eagle eye”.:eye:

#4

Hey that’s pretty exciting.

What trace/space width is it expected to be capable of?

Are any of the remaining tasks subject to additional help?

#5

Is the plan to keep it or return it?

#6

Not sure what kind tolerances it can hold. Should be able to hold tighter tolerances than the Shapeoko - shorter overall travel and more mechanically rigid. Have .0156", .025", and .0625" end mills on order. Some test ideas include cutting parallel lines in both axis, in curves, right angles, diagonals, etc over the full travel of the x & y axis. See what kind of tolerance it keeps over the full travel. Have any ideas, feel free to share.

Next step is to figure out how to mount the limit switches. Looking at using micro switches w/rollers on a lever arm. Mounting the switches will be an interesting deign exercise. I do not want to drill/tap holes into the mechanical structure unless absolutely necessary. Have some ideas for this.

Current plans are to keep it and make boards!

#7

Let me know if I can help with that.

#8

This will largely depend upon three things, the accuracy of the machine (which we are still testing) and the tooling used. I expect the accuracy/precision of this machine to not be a constraining factor (very well built), With appropriate tooling I have seen reports of 10 mil trace spacing. ’

Oh, and the third thing I have heard that effects the width spacing will be the quality of the board itself.

#9

No drills?

-=-=-=-=-

#10

They aren’t needed. With a pcb mill, you can use the end mills to create most drill holes, without the need to swap tooling and potentially loose registration.

1 Like
#11

Are classes coming up on this machine? I’d pay a nominal fee to learn how to use it, which would help with funding the reconstruction.

1 Like
#12

Zach,

Art asked the same question. Unless someone volunteers, I don’t see a class happening. However, once you have gerber files (which is I think the greatest hurdle), converting them to gcode and running them is a pretty straightforward process.

This software

is one (and a good one) way to convert your gerber to gcode). Submitting and running the gcode is something someone can be shown in less then 5 minutes, so I don’t think is worth a class. Some of the specifics will vary depending upon how @artg_dms finishes off the physical setup.

In my opinion, getting gerber files created will be the big hurdle here, and that is not something easily covered. As you know designing a pcb is as much art as science.

That said, once the machine is ready, I will be glad to help most folks learn to run their gcode on it. It really is a quick, easy process.