I don’t know that it ever was used for the MultiCam, that’s probably an @AlexRhodes or @Kentamanos question. When I got here it was attached to the Oneida and we later moved it over to the donated collector I linked above.
I can confim that the dust collector on the mutlicam is a Delta 50-760.
Like @TBJK, I’m also not a fan of the saw stop. In our use of the system, we had multiple instances of the saw stop firing due to malfunction, when we were effectively doing everything correctly. Secondly, the saw stop has a very common false positive failure state of damp wood or conductive material in or on wood being cut on the saw.
These common false positive scenario added with the malfunctions have lead to my decision to also not use the Saw Stop for my projects. I don’t want to take on the financial burden of repairing saw blades and replacing the safety cartridge do to malfunction or common false positive firing of the safety system. While I do value the possibility of the saw stop saving members from possible injury due to negligent hand placement while cutting. I find the implementation very lacking and actually becoming more of a problem in our environment and use at DMS.
I would like to add my voice to those not in favor of a second SawStop. I cut quite a bit of Baltic birch that has been cut first with a laser. It is my understanding that the laser char can trigger the brake under the right (wrong?) circumstances. Also, there is a need for a place to cut higher moisture content wood. If something is a bit too green for the SawStop, you still need a tool that can be used. That said, I do think the SawStop is a good item for the space and should be the saw of choice for inexperienced woodworkers.
If I remember my training correctly, there is a way to disarm the sawstop mechanism (temporarily) for these boundary cases.
Disarming wasn’t in my Woodshop 101 to the best of my memory. Would like to know if that is a possibility and how to do it.
Functionally, yes, but operationally, the required key is not available to members. I think the biggest issue is someone turning off the safety, and not restoring it before the next user starts work. What would the liability look like if something went wrong before it was discovered that it was still bypassed?
How to bypass the saw stop safety system. Note, if you turn the saw off between cuts you have to repeat this step. It is very easy to forget to re-initiate the safety bypass.
Failure of member to check the equipment before use, which is a violation of shop safety rules. If in doubt, stop and ask someone, or lock it out.
(We are all adults.)
All to often we forget that there is an OVERWHELMING amount of personal responsibility here. Using this machine should not turn off your brain because it is “SAFE”. Safe or not, things can and will go wrong. Following the proper rules and checking out all equipment before use is imperative!
How many members have woodshop 101 credentials, where they were not taught to be sure that the key isn’t inserted before normal use? How do we get them all trained to that step such that most of us would sleep OK if such an incident were to occur?
Watch the video you posted, it actual explains the answer to @kbraby’s question.
The bypass is reverted as soon as the saw is power cycled. As that is the common use of the tool, we would have very little chance for additional liability.
I have no horse in this race. I enjoyed using the wood shop for two projects, both using white pine. Since that is now banned, it is unlikely I’ll be in there much. Unless I can get some of this mythical Fir stuff that I’ve never seen at my big-box store …
So, the bypass is a single use event that must be repeated every time the saw is started.
That I could live with. BUT it would require the key to be available 24/7 for trained users.
One could re-wire the switch so that a button-press + RFID fob touch would disable it. It would also log the action.
I would like to sing in the “Not Another SawStop” chorus, please. I liked using the Delta. Knowing there is no safety net made me think about and rehearse my cuts so I would be as safe as possible while shoving wood toward a spinning blade.
Delta (or similar) will be required if anyone wants to use the dado stack blades, thin kerf blades, smaller blades, etc.
What’s wrong with white pine? Don’t know much about different wood types
In short, pine (all or some of the woods called “pine” in vernacular) may (or may not, depending) be banned from using the woodshop to work because (some say) they are the ruination of the machines (e.g. jointer, planer, etc.).