Need some advice on engine misfires on my 2009 Chevy Aveo

Automotive
#1

Hi everybody,

I’m having some issues with my 2009 Chevy Aveo (~65k miles). About three days ago, I got in my car and pulled out of the driveway and noticed some inconsistency in the acceleration. I tested it a few times by giving a bit more acceleration than I usually do, and noticed that the RPM gauge was kind of shaky (usually would just be a smooth upward acceleration before switching gears, but it would stutter several times before changing gears). Twice now, while driving and giving a bit more acceleration, I’ve had some misfire issues and had the check engine light come on (and the hold light started flashing the second time).

I pulled the code from the second check engine light, and it was a P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire. When I searched for the blinking hold light, the first result I saw was a thread about 2009 Chevy Aveos, and a few posters were talking about having to have their transmission rebuilt…which worries me a bit.

So, with all that in mind, where should I start? My brother said I should just grab a can of fuel additive and see if that works, but I’ve seen him mess up more cars than fix them (not that it’s a bad suggestion). I’ve also had a few friends say I should start with spark plugs, and cursory research of the code and the symptoms make it seem like it’s a good place to start.

If I should start with spark plugs, are there any other related items I should replace? I was thinking about grabbing four of these from AutoZone and then making it over to the space in the next few days: https://is.gd/q3fP27

Also, shout out to @TLAR. Tom was kind enough to help me check my brakes a month ago, and I really appreciated that.

Thanks!

1 Like
#2

Plugs usually first, especially I’d still original.

If it is coil over plug ignition, probably the coil for that cylinder next.

2 Likes
#3

Dump a can of fuel system cleaner in the tank. I prefer Berryman or STP, but that’s just me…

If you’ve never changed the plugs, you’re long overdue. Do them AND the plug wires. Google says it’s not coil on plug so you have wires to replace.

2 Likes
#4

Will do, @Raymond . How does this look as far as a fuel additive? https://is.gd/2clQl2

I’ll go ahead and do plugs and wires. And for wires, do you mean these? https://is.gd/7oPXWU

Thanks!

EDIT: or do I need to do something with the coil pack? https://is.gd/Es10hy

#5

Hmm. If that coil pack is correct, your engine is coil on plug, and you have no plug wires.

Unless there are numerous cases reported of coil pack failures, I would still suggest plugs first. But it could be the coil pack.

#6

Dusten,

There was a recall by GM about a similar issue to yours back in 2012 for 2009 Aveos with a 1.6L engine. Their solution was new spark plugs and boots.
For spark plugs in your case I would suggest you opt for what came factory in the Aveo new - not was Autozone or any other parts counter folks suggest. You will most likely need to replace the coil pack as well (not expensive in your case)

If you like - I can call my old place (largest wholesale parts distributor for GM (now)among others) of work and ask what these parts would cost.
Rock auto will def have lower prices on aftermarket parts though.

Here is a clip from the recall:
Reason for This Recall: General Motors has decided to conduct a voluntary Emissions Recall involving all 2009 model year Chevrolet Aveo vehicles equipped with a 1.6L gas engine. A degraded connection between the spark plug boots on the ignition coil assembly and the spark plugs may cause the illumination of the Check Engine Soon light, rough engine operation, and lack of engine power

#7

If you go aftermarket and want to buy local, buy Napa. I prefer their parts over AutoZone/O’Reilly’s - especially for things like water pumps and alternators.

For spark plugs, NGK or Champion. No need for iridium or platinum plugs or for things like splitfire or plugs with 4 grounds surrounding an electrode. Those are money wasters.

DO get some silicone gel and put a dab in the boots before putting them on. It makes it much easier to get them off the plugs later as it keeps the rubber from sticking to the boot.

#8

Advance auto would be my preference for local since they are the parent company that bought my former place of work.

and my former place of work is the largest single wholesaler of imported OEM parts in North America.

#9

Thanks for all the info!

Spark plug boots are separate from the ignition coils like these https://is.gd/zmVCRM right? Where would I find those on Rock Auto?

Are there any acceptable aftermarket parts I could use in lieu of the OEM parts? I’d like to pick up some parts tomorrow and get this taken care of ASAP (unless I can find the OEM/factory new parts locally tomorrow?)

I’d be interested to hear the prices of the OEM parts, but I don’t want to trouble you with that – especially if I’m aiming to get parts tomorrow.

EDIT: There are Advanced Autos near me. Is it just a specific Advanced Auto that took over your former place of work that would have the factory new parts, or would they all have them?

Thanks again!

#10

Looks like there are 2 types on that site you linked… one is coil pack that sits on the plugs and the other is a coil pack that uses wires.

Look under your hood and see which type you need.

#11

Ah, sorry I didn’t see those different ones listed. This is what my car uses: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2064804&cc=1444160

Are ignition coils separate from spark plug boots?

#12

The boots are the rubber pieces that cover the spark plug connections. I’m not sure if you have separate ones on those… other members who are more familiar with that setup may know.

#13

Thanks for all the replies, everybody! Going to pick up some new spark plugs and ignition coil in the next few days and hopefully have this done by Sunday. I’ll report back here once it’s completed. Fingers crossed that it fixes the issue!

#14

Dusten,

I can pick them up friday or sat - in the event you are not successful in finding something less expensive or readily available and then drop them at the space.

#15

Thanks for the offer, Tom! Really appreciate that. I had some extra time today, and went ahead and picked up some new spark plugs and the ignition coil, and have them all swapped out.

Car seems to be running a lot smoother, so hopefully this solved the issue.

Thanks for all the support and information, everybody!

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#16

This post was flagged by the community and is temporarily hidden.

#17

Not sure why you were moderated - Seems fair to resurrect a thread that contains pertinent information. Then again - I see that you’re a new user. We are not a general automotive forum, and you’ll likely get better assistance on a more generic place.

Does the coil pack replacement (you said that you had done so 4 times) seem to solve the problem but only temporarily?

What codes is it throwing?

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#18

I have to ask what brand coil pack are you using ?

This is one of those components where “the cheapest priced part” is often NOT the most economical part to install. (much the same rational as buying several of the same tool from Horror Freight).
Just because is says it is the “same part” does not mean it will fit or last as long as a better OEM part.
OEM means the part came from a source that actually supplied the car company when the car was being manufactured - these are not often the same parts found at local chain parts stores. On Rock auto - one must be familiar with the OEM brands.