I’m new to the makerspace. I’m restoring a classic VW Bus and getting it ready for the paint shop soon. I need help with welding some sheet metal on areas of the body that have rusted through. I’m good with body work but have no experience welding. I restored this vehicle over 10 years ago and used fiberglass to fix these spots, but glass doesn’t doesn’t last in areas prone to moisture. For the work I’m doing on the prep on this I feel it should be done correctly to last. This area is behind the bumper, all the other rocker panels had been replaced with sheet metal once upon a time. I appreciate any help or suggestions.
2 Likes
Sheet metal is tricky. Once upon a time I paid a professional welder with decades of experience to weld a patch panel on my '74 Camaro. He botched it and warped the panel. I’d suggest finding a shop and letting them do that part. Failing that, make small widely separated spot welds, give each plenty of time to cool, and take your time. The entire weld should be done with spots, no running beads. At least, this is how I’ve seen it done successfully.
1 Like
That would be almost a perfect spot to make flanged panels (panel flanging tool) & use the spot welder. I’m not sure how well/authentic you want make the restoration but if total perfection isn’t the key that would be ideal. If you want total perfection, be ready for hours & hours of welding, dollying. If you go that way you can use butt welding clamps (made from copper) to make the joint. It will be time consuming though.
This area is mostly hidden by the bumper so I’m not too concerned with being authentic. I figure cut out the affected area and skin over it, and the rest can be covered with body filler.
Yep, no bead. Fit the panel as close as you can and tack it on, spacing the tacks as far apart as you can, cool, repeat. Then grind, and fill gaps.
I don’t weld, but these guys have the lower panel and are great folks to work with.
looks like your Type 2 is a 1968 - 1970 - is is a Westpahila or a tin top?
This is where “cleco” fasteners are great (from my aircraft days) perfect a butt connection (and so much more), then weld, finish etc.
2 Likes
A 1970 westy. The only thing about those reproduction skins is they are thinner gauge than the original 16g.
Jim
That is not always the case. WW metal is good stuff (and on some of their panels they offer the “economy” or thinner version or the better.
But if you want spot on exact replacements then you need to go to Gerson - his metal is the best.
https://klassicfab.com/klassicfab1/en/9-bay-window-bus
If you want to see what his panels are like in person - I can meet you at the space with the bed floor pieces I have for my1966 Doublecab - future project.
2 Likes
I have a bag of clecos & pliers if your would like to use them as the video shows. I got mine from that surplus place in Richardson. There are also other styles of clecos as well that may work as well.
1 Like
Tim,
One of these days I’d like to drive over in my VW crewcab truck and start removing the hundreds if not thousands of spot welds to start removing the cargo bed floor to prep it for the replacement panels and get a lesson on tack welding into the original spot weld hold (as much as possible) - a good fall/winter project. I also have a few bags of clecos - just cannot find my cleco pliers.
