Of course…hottest week of the year so far…sigh. Air is moving through the system/house as usual, and the outside unit (condenser) fan is working, just no cold air all of a sudden (no warning).
If anyone here on the forum is a professional HVAC service person and wants the work, let me know ASAP.
Barring that, a recommendation for a reliable person or company up in the (general) Plano/Allen/Friso area would be very welcome.
Is the fat pipe, near the condenser, sweating?
When was the last time your capacitor was changed? The one on your condenser? Do you have a meter to measure it?
Thanks for response.
The system is currently off. Does it need to be running to check for this (I assume so…)? If so, I can turn it on and go check in a few. Is "fat pipe the one covered by insulation, i.e the “return”?
Not 100% sure, but I think never. I can’t remember having an issue with the system before this.
I do have a multi-meter. Somewhere…sigh. But I’ll have to run out to Youtube to find a “how to” on exactly what to touch with the things, first.
If the unit has been off for say 1hr….most have a thermal disconnect in the compressor. That thermal disconnect will open if it’s been trying to start unsuccessfully and got hot. Turn on the system. Go listen to the condenser turn on, does it make menacing noises on startup?
Let it run for about 15 minutes the feel the copper pipe wrapped in insulation. What temp you’ll you estimate it is?
Most multimeters will NOT have a capacitance meter, but some high end ones will.
The system had been off for a good while, but apparently not long enough as it started almost immediately and was running by the time I ran to with a recorder going. I did notice a short, intermittent “hummmm” every 6-8 seconds. I recorded a vid but the humming sound was so low it is not distinguishable on recording (at least to my ears). Listening live I noticed it, though…it seems like the compressor trying to kick in?
System is running now and I’ll check for sweat in a bit…
I have this one (I don’t see any reference to capacitance measuring (e.g. μF, nF, pF), so you are probably correct.):
We have several in the DMS E-Lab that can do this. If the capacitor looks swollen that’s often a sign it’s failing or has failed but a meter is ideal to be sure of what’s going on with it.
Be careful with capacitors like this, they can hold quite a charge. Use an insulated tool, like a screw driver with an insulating handle, to short out the contacts before handling.
Yep…been there, done that back in the day (in school).
lol…the cooling (compressor) came on a little while ago. My infra thermometer indicates ~64 at the registers, so that’s about right. Not sure how to interpret the behaviour? It crapped out at the hottest point of the day yesterday even though I keep my thermostat set pretty high, especially when it gets hot out. Like (80, 81, 82) °F during day/afternoon/early evening. In fact, I try not to set it more than 20 degrees lower than the outside temp.
I’m open to diagnostic suggestions, though…should I still have someone come check the freon? Doesn’t seem like that’s the problem, but…
My HVAC problems DIY checklist before calling for service:
1 Check/replace the return air filter
2 Clean the coils on the condenser unit
3 Check the control board (probably on your furnace but really who knows) for any fuses, make sure they’re intact
If it’s struggling in the hottest part of the day, a clogged filter and/or dirty outside coil can contribute to that.
Also if the condenser unit is in the sun during the hottest part of the day see if you can rig up some shade for it.
I do this ever three months (I have an OUtlook reminder set that pops up)
I do this every year in spring, following this:
It’s not, quite, but still, a good idea. I’ll do it.
I have two units. One is currently awaiting my installation of a new evaporator.
As luck would have it, my second unit crapped out a few days ago. The evaporator was iced over, as was the vapor line at the compressor. Turns out my filter was filthy. I replaced it, let the system thaw overnight and then ran the fan for a couple of hours to dry everything out. When I started it up again it cooled normally for 48 hours, then the capacitor went bad - swollen like a balloon. Replaced that and everything is working (fingers crossed).
Run through that Family Handyman script above once a year while it is still cool out, and check your filters every three months and you’ll be golden. Unless, like me, you’re not :–/
If possible, see if your new system(s) can handle an oversized (4", 6" deep) filter. It cuts down on changes, although I still inspect quarterly out of habit.
Please never suggest a screw driver.
Safety safety safety
Consider discharging your capacitor by first using a well insulated pair of pliers (electrician rated 600v would be best) to remove the leads from the top of the capicitor can. To drain the residual …
This video appeara decent but i havent watched the whole thing
And while the screen shot shows him using a screwdriver, im making the assumption he is mentioning that the tool has no conductivity
And he mentions it like a minute in
Thanks. I could be very wrong but in my experience an uninsulated screwdriver would be a very rare item indeed.
Changing your filters is key…screw the mfgs recommendations. Check it monthly change it when it is dirty. then make sure the condenser coils are clean….remember to clean in the opposite direction to the airflow.
Off the bat I’d check the cap. You can buy a turbo 200x capacitor it’s made by American radio metrics……the ONLY capacitor brand I install. 1 callback in 6 years. The Turbos get the same warranty as their normal caps 5 years….the benefit to the Turbo Caps is even if you don’t know your cap size you can just order one. And wire it according the instructions and get any value you need.
If it isn’t the cap or airflow issues it will be your refrigerant levels.
Yep…after reading up a bit more after cooling cam back on, I ordered a new one, although not the one you recommended. I’ll check it out and cancel the current one that makes sense to me. Thanks for all the input and advice!
Is that capacitor available at Locke?
Unsure. Locke is not one of my usual spots.
