Multicam Crown-Nut wrench - Progress

@bertberaht @BobKarnaugh @TBJK @EthanWestern

Ok guys…My schedule has been tough lately with work and AC jobs…But I had some downtime to spend. I’ve given up getting it done on the HAAS. I haven’t been able to make scheduling work with certified HAAS users so…Manual mill it is. It didn’t hold well in the jaws of the compound rotary table. Yes, I could load the heavy compound and the heavy rotary and not have to make the jig, but it would be more setup and tear-down time…

I’ll send you guys the password for the file. It can be viewed here.

So my plan is to build and indexing Jig, 12 threaded holes to index the tool. I’ve got the material.

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Have you talked to Bob K about this? He had a super idea that is a lot less challenging technically.

I will be personally pushing myself into the HAAS. It’s not the hardest project I’ve had to do, but it will be a welcomed challenge.

I will not however become a normal trainer for the HAAS.

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Can the wrench be cast?

I ask because we have 3D printers and can obtain filament for lost wax casting.

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The metal MUST be supper strong…We bent the mild steel one. This one will be made from High Carbon tool steel and hopefully annealed.

While I certainly appreciate the response, that does not actually answer my question.

Annealed? That would be as soft as possible. Do you mean hardened?

You would machine it annealed & then harden it.

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Cast aluminum or brass would likely NOT be strong enough if the mild steel prototype didn’t hold up. I don’t believe we have the facilities to cast steel at DMS. Also, a cast part would typically need additional machining to bring into final tolerances, and this brings us back to the initial issue re: machining the part.

annealing vs hardening

Tool steel (higher carbon steel) can be annealed to soften it to machine it (often it is sold already annealed). Once the machining is done, it should be quenched to harden it. This also makes the steel quite brittle (prone to chipping/shattering), so it would often then be tempered to remove some of the hardness and make the tool more resilient.

Quenching can be done with water, oil, even air depending on the specific metal used.

Annealing, thermocycling, quenching, and tempering are collectively known as heat treating and there is a lot of science behind doing it right and getting the maximum performance out of a steel. Each has its own recommended temperature profile for quenching - some of which are likely beyond our ability to handle well in house at DMS. There are send-out services which will heat treat parts.


Got it. Thank you.

So I’m looking at this & from what I can tell its just creating a hole pattern? That pattern could be done easily on the bridgeport since we have DRO, it is soo easy to lay the holes out.