Label this one as ‘Training Required’ and they won’t use it either. 
Good point/catch. Will add to previous post. Thanks.
And if any of you DO want to try making boards on the Shapeoko, I bought a pack of endmills that are specifically designed to cut PCB boards, and they worked great for me. Shoot me a message and I’ll let you borrow one for your project. Or maybe I’ll end up labeling one and leaving it with the Shapeoko, but I worry it’ll get used for other materials or disappear.
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I just think it is a cool project and don’t mind helping out. I am registered for the shapeopo class, but mostly to understand how a working system behaves. If I really wanted to get a board done now I’d use toner transfer and the liter of [cupric chloride sitting in my garage] (Waste recovery from spent PCB etchant) 
I spent quite a bit of time on Tuesday looking over the PCB Mill. I think there is plenty to do on the case, so I’ll start there. I’ll hold off on the limit switches until I can catch up with @jphelps to see what he has already accomplished on the holders.
Today I’ll work on mounting parts in the case. I might try to cut and fold a new front panel for the case so it does not have any air gaps. I think that case should draw air horizontally across the enclosure. The large openings in the front will cause large dead zones in the air flow. For now I’ll work on standoffs and holes for the connectors.
@artg_dms do you happen to have ideas for a chassis mount connector for the spindle power? I could always get one from mouser but thought you might have already had one in mind.
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I don’t recall having a connector for the spindle sply. Might check Tanner’s first. I’ll be at DMS tonight for a couple of mtngs.
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Very nice and thank you. If you can tackle the case that’s a huge step forward right there. I don’t think I can make it up there tonight but I hope to do so this weekend.
Does anyone have the specs on the spindle motor? And the power controller? The controller info is written in a language i don’t understand. Yah spindle motor info is not visible without disassembling the holder.
I left those 3d printed limit switch holder samples on the wasteboard.
I don’t recall having a set of specs for either. Had to email the manufacture for info on how to wire and got pictures. Was not impressed. Ordered through amazon - came with absolutely no install/wiring info.
It was Chinese and ‘rated’ ~300W. Supplied with the squareish 24v supply. Speed output, ~7,000 rpm --> 30,000rpm
Any chance you still have that picture they sent you? I’d like to see the other connections on that supply. The ones that are hooked up now are self explanatory, So I’ll at least document those.
Sorry, didn’t see this thread developing. Now I got the auto queueing thing on my phone.
I designed 3D holders for the opto switches, but couldn’t print today because Domain down, no login possible in 3D Lab. Will try this weekend.
Welcome aboard, all! We need this green bd fab!
More motor specs:
100Vdc
500W
Air cooled
Brush contact armature, DC motor
12,000 RPM
52mm diameter
2KG
I printed the brackets and installed the Opto Switches on X,Y,Z Axis yesterday. Still need to make the Flags which interupt the beams.
It’s best practice to also have mechanical limit switches, usually wired to kill the motor power if triggered, before the lead screw can drive the carriage into a mechanically jammed position. For these low torque Steppers, jamming a carriage won’t be catastrophic.
Where is the Tiny-G Ctlr and P/S ?
I looked around the PCB Mill and E-Lab, but couldn’t find them.
Opto Switches
Found a tidbit on Homing in the TinyG Manual. The Optos for X & Z Axis must be moved to other travel limit. The Origin for Homing is bottom left, with the Router all the way Up. For X, it must be moved to the Left Bulkhead. For Z, the bracket can just be reversed.
3.3 Vdc for Opto Switches.
I left a diagram and ProtoBoard with an OPB816 in the PCB Mill goody box. It needs to be modified.
P/S Volts need to be 3.3Vdc, not 5V
Pull-up Resistor for PhotoTransistor = 3k3, not 4k7
CurrentLimit Resistor for IR LED = 100 Ohm, not 170
The leads for the Optos are already attached, and a legend marking on the Diagram. Maybe just put the Resistors on the leads where they plug into TinyG