Modify pattern so sleeve isn't gathered

Webdevel · July 17, 2018, 5:39pm

First off, sewing is very new to me. Second, this is the first project I’ve worked on using a pattern. so I don’t know terminology or what most things are actually called.

I’m making a coat. I’ve just attached the first sleeve, and the pattern called for gathering the sleeve fabric at the top, then sewing it on. I’ve done that and I dislike how the shoulder is gathered/bunched. It looks like the shoulder of a womans’ coat really.

So I’m looking for advice on how to modify the shoulder so it doesn’t gather, hopefully resulting in a shoulder that looks more like a suit? Any advice is appreciated.

This is the pattern shape ( number 7), then what it looks like attached.

sinless · July 17, 2018, 5:45pm

As far as I know the easiest way is to have a pattern piece for a sleeve that you like better and alter this one to match, but that’s not going to work for you since you don’t have one. Can you measure the armhole on the body and figure out how much fullness is in the sleeve that’s extra? If so you could take that information and basically do the opposite of slashing and spreading by removing small wedges of the pattern piece until you are closer to the armhole circumference and then tape the pattern together with the smaller sleeve cap.

Basically the opposite of http://isntthatsew.org/slash-method/

John_Marlow · July 17, 2018, 6:44pm

Start with Cindy’s @sinless suggestion to measure your armhole. Then you need to reduce the fullness of the sleeve to match … but only above the elbow to the armhole cap. This picture shows the pattern folded in half. You will be removing a wedge (in your paper pattern) from E1/E2 up to K1/K.

Kriskat30 · July 17, 2018, 6:52pm

Or take an existing suit that fits and make sure the sleeve and armhole measurements are the same then copy that.

Webdevel · July 17, 2018, 7:58pm

I can make her robes no problem! but no cajiggering. I’m looking for actual repeatable technique for adjusting sleeves here.

Webdevel · July 17, 2018, 7:59pm

Between this and @sinless suggestion I think I got it. I was worried about the sleeve getting to narrow if I took out a strip going to the wrist.

This suggestion makes sense thank you all!

Nate · July 17, 2018, 8:36pm

But…but…you were my hand stitching hero

John_Marlow · July 17, 2018, 8:38pm

How do you think he gathered this?

Webdevel · July 18, 2018, 1:37am

Looks like this technique is going to work for me. Thanks KS for the help. I had to cut both a strip to the elbow as you suggested @John_Marlow and I also had to trim back the shoulder curve, but it looks good now. Thank you all again.

Hand stitched with white thread for fit. I’ll post pics when it’s done if anyone is interestesm.

Hardsuit · July 18, 2018, 3:18am

Astrud and I both highly recommend that book for pattern modifications and general alterations.

Webdevel · July 18, 2018, 12:41pm

Just ordered it. Thank you. This is just the kind of advice I was looking for!