Milling copper?

Machine Shop
#1

I’m looking to carve a logo out of a solid piece of copper to make a wood brand. something like this… http://www.makersmarkbranding.com/product/flame-heated-branding-iron-heavy-duty-hd-d

questions: is that a HAAS mill thing and if so is there someone that could help me out? I have a logo and can supply it in about any format needed but I am not checked out on that machine. Anyone know if the Shapeoko would handle that sort of thing?

Where would one procure a large (2" x 3") chunk of copper locally? Is there a better alloy that would work better for that? Looking for good, even heat retention and durability.

thanks much,
ryan

#2

https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=4288&step=4&showunits=inches&id=253&top_cat=87

(edit: I should explain … they have a Will Call here in DFW)

1 Like
#3

Be careful when machining copper. It can pull a tool out of its taper. Best to use low feed rates. Good luck with your project.

Oldpro

#4

Is there any reason for copper? If you’re branding small cards and wood I can’t see a reason regular mild steel wouldn’t work splendidly. It would certainly be a hell of a lot easier to machine. Copper is very malleable and has a very narrow window of chipload that isn’t too low to gum up your tool and too high to cause work holding issues.

#5

Man am I learning stuff reading this thread.

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#6

I was trying to copy a thing I saw online. I think the rationale for copper was even heat retention and delivery. But, from what I understand, that may not be worth the pain of milling it. I was planning switch to aluminum and mill it the Shapeoko but my design has square corners, etc. Might not work.

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#7

I gave that link a second look and that copper brand looks to be cast or stamped, not machined

Aluminum would be the easiest thing but you’d have to reheat your brand very often as Al does not retain heat readily. Not a problem for small runs but if you plan on branding a ton of things, steel may be easier.

#8

Cast. There’s an idea. JSM just posted something about 3d printing burnout resin and a machine that can use it. Print it, cast it, use it!

I think there’s also a cuttle-bone casting class on the schedule to learn the basic approach.

#9

Lost Wax casting as it’s called is great for this. The problem though is if you use a 3D printer to make your wax model every little imperfection and layer ridge shows up in the cast negative. You’d have to spend a good deal of time sanding the model before casting the negative to get a quality mold.

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#10

Maybe that’s the advantage of using the special resin filament JSM mentioned instead of regular 3d print filament? I watched a video that showed some remarkable detail with jewelry findings.

And darn it. I thought I was never going to need 3d printer training… #makeallthethings

#11

See this thread. The new printer has been approved & will make a lot better for resolution.

#12

I might have missed it but what type of printer is it that has been approved? Is it a laser cured resin/liquid bed type?

#13

Yes, a Form Labs Form 2