Resin wood hybrid jewelry has become increasingly popular over the last few years and now you can make your own in this class.
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I really want to take this class but I will be in Ga with an unknown return date. If I make back in time may I be a walk in?
Yeah I can put you on standby for sure. If that doesn’t work out then I will plan to do another one in November as I believe this will be a popular class.
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Will the class involve pouring/curing the resin as well?
No, but that’s not a bad idea for future iterations of this class. Sanding and polishing resin is arduous and time consuming, so I will have the blanks ready to go as just making the pendants will take the bulk of the class time. I am looking to use scrap pieces of maple burl and olivewood and make a couple of different colors of blanks ahead of time.
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I’m interested next time you have a class
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Can you make pink 
I sure can. In fact I was considering doing a transparent pink plus white pearl swirl.
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Darn, filled up already. Looks like an amazing class, can’t wait to try and make one of them!
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Just saw this. A little too late. I’m teaching in Rockwall that day until 1. I’ll try to make it in time to see if there are any no-shows.
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I tried my hand at making some of these several months ago. There is a bit of a trick in tearing the wood - will you be covering that in the class or starting with pre-torn, already resin-infused pieces?
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Excellent question. I am starting us off with premade blanks that are utilizing a nice maple burl wood. they should all have some sort of feature that can be seen through the translucent resin. The resin i use takes 24 hrs to cure so that would be a 2 parter if done that way. @uglyknees actually helped me make a batch that have a “seascape” in them so they should be pretty rad. The company from which I will be pirating the look uses what looks like oak and they are breaking it (they score the wood then use a vise to clamp one side while exerting force on the other). I can certainly tell the class how that is done in more detail, but don’t worry about these not looking good 
Oh and for those who wanted to take this class but weren’t able, I plan to do about 3 or so more of these so dont worry too much.
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The how-to I followed used three pieces of wood scrap: two on one side of the piece to be broken and one in between and on the other side. These were are clamped up in the vice and slowly tightened.
The scrap concentrates the force where you want the break to occur, and the vice allows slowly increasing pressure to control the tearing of the wood.
Sorry I don’t have pics of the ones I did (I’m still out of town).
Here’s a highly detailed ASCII representation 
:
V = vice
S = Scrap
W = wood to be torn
T = Tears appear here
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
SSSS SSSS
WWWTTTWWWWTTTWWWWWW
SSSS
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^^^^^^^
clamping force
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You put such generous and kind time into these fantastic classes. Thank you.
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Check this video for how one guy does it. This would work fairly well too. I like the stuff he makes but he could have crystal clear castings if he would just use a pressure pot!
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I tried 5 minute epoxy and using the DMS vacuum pot to suck the bubbles out, but with only limited success. Slower-curing epoxy resin would work better (and likely yellow less in the curing process).
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