Bought a project 1962 Chevy swb truck, and I am stuck knowledge wise. (LS swap/Suspension) I did have a shop lined up for the swap 100k 5.3 Vortec 4l60e he went from 5-8k to 12k-14k real quick. Just to do the engine install.
I have a sourced hotrod shop that can get me a 4.8 4l60e 60k cleaned up, all accessories, pedal and a new 3 wire harness for 2800 shipped. My front end has both sets of engine mounts as is. Idk anything about suspension. Not sure if I need to install the watts link as well?
Aside from oil pan, fuel, cooling, and gauges. What can sneak up on you to justify 6k-8k in labor/parts? Wiring is not an issue atm.
Wiring, Cooling, heating, some suspension, ENGINE REBUILD, bed, cleaning up, re-welding (trust me, there will be some re-welding), Instrument cluster adaptation, Upholstery/carpet, alignment, engine adaptor plates (need to be fabricated), … need I go on?
Also, Rat rod or Hot rod? Mild tune or extreme power?
I am doing something similar in a '86 K5, except with a 2002 LB7 Duramax. Had to look around to get a bunch of the parts. Still need more, but I am going to try to get the engine into the vehicle before looking at anything else. It already has a SM465 and a NP208 in it.
I’ve done a few of the old knee knocker Chevy trucks. I get all the rest.
It’s the LS swap and suspension setup I’m concerned about. 12k for a junk yard take out install. Vs me ordering one I know is good and ready togo, aside from fuel, cooling and final tuning.
Going with the 4.8 for a daily driver. Not peeling pavement as the tires and rear end suggest.
I’m pretty sure you’ll need either a watts link, or panhard rod. I don’t see anything in the picture that locates the axle laterally (side-to-side). The four-link setup will only locate it front to rear. A panhard rod setup is a little simpler, but the disadvantage is that the axle doesn’t stay perfectly centered with travel.
You can run a diagonal bar/rod from the 4 link mounts to control sway. Solves the “moving center” issue with a standard panhard bar/rod. But, unless you are road racing the truck or have extremely tight tire to fender clearance, a panhard bar is the simplest solution. Of course, a watts linkage is way cooler. From the picture below it looks like that option was chosen.
