Lego SLA printer

the lego is for the frame holding up the projector, and a disk drive

‘Why can it be made so cheaply? Well that’s because top down DLP 3D
printers (which feature the resin tank above the build platform) feature
few moving parts. ‘Top down DLP printers in their simplest form have
only one axis of motion, a video projector, and minimal electronics.
They do not require a heated or perfectly level bed, there is never a
clogged or wrong temperature in the extruder as it does not use an
extruder. And the resin used has a comparable price to FDM printers,’
matstermind explains. And the name Chimera refers to a mythological
creature made up from three different animals, which this machine
consists of projector, some toys and some firmware. Easy.’

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here is a better article

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it uses a $50 1024 by 768 dlp projector, all over ebay. and $115 ($200 new) on amazon.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC1.A0.H0.XXD221u.TRS0&_nkw=XD221u&_sacat=0

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That is pretty kewl @Ken_Schmitt!

If we can get someone to donate a couple things, I will set up a Midnight Makers class at the end of July for it.

Here’s the Instructables:

We would need someone to donate the following:

  • 1x computer disc drive laser deck assembly (must be one with a stepper motor)
  • Their time & ability to etch circuit boards
  • Their time & ability to build a sturdy frame out of scrap wood/mdf (we can buy some, if needed; but, wouldn’t hurt to check the available scrap first…).

The rest I can purchase with 3D Fab Funds…

NOTE: If the person who volunteers to etch circuit boards for it will also be willing to show members attending the class a demo of how they etched the boards and/or teach a quick “hands-on” how to solder during the build, I will break the class into two parts and that instructor would be eligible to keep the $50 honorarium for the “electronics” night of the series.

Thanks again!
Lisa
:smile:

*** I should clarify… Even though this is billed as a LEGO SLA 3D Printer, if we build one, it will need to have a wood/mdf frame to be able to withstand our use. :wink: :slight_smile:

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Yes and no. it could be lego, then glued solid. the only structural problem i see with legos is if its dropped it will disintegrate. a good thick epoxy shell should keep it together.

The design is so simple it should be simple enough to have a cut pattern for plywood and laser cut (or route) a short run of them and bolt / glue them together.

It could be 3d printed, of course… I could make some on mine, but someone more clever needs to cad it up.

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I would love any kind of DIY SLA printer class for 3D fab, I don’t know enough about it honestly to do it though.

This is honestly what I would recommend buying because it can do a larger print area, and has a much more solid Z axis and a pre-built controller.

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its a nice box… all it lacks is projector and resin… its also $400 before the projector and resin.

maybe we get the Chimera one put together for less than $100 before the projector, since they are on ebay all the time that could be gotten at any time.

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Even if we could make the LEGO frame stable, my past experience with LEGOs tells me that many bricks and K’Nex sets would be hella expensive (at least compared to scrap wood and a bit of work.)

I’d offer to help, but I only know how to etch boards in theory. Definitely if there’s a class for this build I’d like to learn, though. Also YAY SLA PRINTER!!

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Another point about using Legos or Megablocks is that the creator of the
Chimera also states that is the resin makes contact with the Legos then the
Legos will dissolve much like Gallium and Aluminum.

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its the resin is bad for lego then its bad for ABS structure members too.
3d printed parts for it, without lamination or a shell that wont dissolve, wouldn’t be good.

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Thanks for all the input so far y’all!

oh 'n Mitch… I understand where you are coming from; however, I want to start with something relatively inexpensive, that way we are out only a minimal investment if it doesn’t get used. My experience with the NinjaFlex (sooooo many people wanted it; but, now that we have it, it doesn’t get used nearly as often as all the requests to make it happen indicated that it should… Mostly due to it being a more expensive type of filament to use, partially because members must be trained to use it, and some lack desire to be trained…). With the Instructables version as posted above, it will be a minimal investment (parts, plus one bottle of resin)… This will be a great “test” for 3D Fab! If it never gets used again, we will know that the 'Space is not quite ready SLA (resin based) printers… 'n if it gets used a LOT, then we can look into purchasing a commercial version.

I’ll keep my eyes posted for more interest, and very importantly - donations as outlined above… :wink: :slight_smile:

Thanks again, y’all!
:smile:

I would suggest either aluminum plate or MDF for construction. MDF would
be cheaper and easier to work with but prone to moisture if not sealed.

How about OSB?
It’s moisture resistant right off the line, cheap, dimensionally correct…

OSB might work but the surface is usually not very flat.

OSB is actually made to be flat, as in no undulations over its length/width, and that is one of its advantages over, for example, plywood or non-engineered wood.
But I’m guessing you mean “smooth”, as in texture or roughness vs. mdf, which is true, but seems largely irrelevant to me.
I don’t really expect my suggestion to be taken seriously, but “redneck plywood” is actually pretty good for a lot of purposes for which people rarely think to use it. For example, I think in this case, where we’re talking about using something which needs to stand up to the possibility of getting splattered with liquid (resin) and keeping cost down, OSB just might fit the bill, but most people will go straight for MDF, acrylic, aluminum, etc.
I expect this to be no different, but I wanted to toss it out there.

Well, you can always try it. As you said, the cost is minimal when compared
to the other materials. I haven’t used OSB lately, but I remember that the
surface isn’t smooth like MDF. As for the flatness, I guess I didn’t pay
that close of attention. I say go for it. You can always switch to MDF or
aluminum if it doesn’t work. Would the resin also eat the acrylic?

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is anyone aware of a commercially available servo motor and rail assembly other than an old DVD drive? it may be simpler.

Printers and flatbed scanners often have something, though they tend to use DC motors and optical encoders.