After we get the tool post on there is some alignment checks recommended in the manual which are not difficult to do:
A headstock check: Take a light cut over a 6" steel round, 2" dia., held in the chuck but not supported by the tailstock. Micrometer reads both ends; they should be very nearly identical. Note: no tolerance given; we need to divine our own tolerance here. There is a brass bar in the cabinet that is about 6"x2"dia that may suffice for this test. If the alignment proves that the axis of spindle rotation is not parallel to the ways, there is a procedure given to correct this misalignment that might be a bit tricky in practice.
A tailstock check: Using a 12" ground steel bar held between centers, check the alignment by fitting a dial indicator to the top side and traversing the saddle back and forth; The reading should hold stead if the bar is parallel to the travel of the saddle. Treatment of this misalignment is rather easy. Do we have such a bar?
Is the lathe structure stiff enough that this testing can be done while it is still up on rollers? Pump and motor bases, for example require alignment checking and final adjustment after grouting in place, if memory serves correctly. The manual assumes an installed machine.
On another subject I am changing up some slides of the lathe training to cover the differences pertaining to the new lathe. About 90% of the course material remains the same. The main differences are the starting/stopping, speed and feed levers, and that there is a coolant flush available. Friday's class is already loaded; If the new lathe is wired and the spindle is working we will visit it to get familiarized with start/stop, speed setting, power feed setups. But then we will do some practice turning and facing on the old lathe. The catch up course for persons familiar with the old lathe to learn about the new one will probably only need be 15 minutes or so.