Laguna bandsaw tracking left?

Has anyone else had issues with the Laguna bandsaw tracking left for tall resawing? I was trying to resaw a 10” tall piece of walnut and each time the blade tracks left. Not sure if this is user error or an issue with the upper guides.

10 inch tall x (?)?

I am by no means an expert or even good, so hopefully someone else will chime in.


As a rule, I always resaw on the smallest/shortest end.
Less of a chance for blade flex.

10”x22” so 10 was the short side

Well damn.

@dwolf is exploring our options regarding replacing or rejuvenating the ceramic blade guides. Sorry you stock was mutilated.

Some one keeps adjusting the fence ! I came in yesterday found someone using the band saw.They had a clamp at one end of the fence down and manually adjust while cutting there board for the drift your talking about… @dwolf said he tighten the fence down last week… I checked the drift a month back and found the fence loose…

The bandsaw does need new guides and drift needs to be set up again… the guides keep the blade from twisting which is part of cause of your cut in the board…

we only have two ways to resaw boards . The laguna and the table saw:. Now we are down to one…

Who ever keeps messing with the fence you need to stop! Setting the fence for drift is no easy peasy task!

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If you use the table saw:

  • Make sure you are using the ripping blade.
  • For wide boards consider supporting the board with a straight board clamped to the fence [making the fence higher]. You want to make sure you don’t “tilt” the board as you are cutting [the higher fence helps support the board].
  • Take smaller cuts - don’t raise the blade to its highest position on the first pass. Making multiple cuts will help keep the blade centered and have less chance of stalling or burning your cut.

Couple of videos on the subject:

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Watching a member resaw a ~8" square by 3/4" board on the table saw (old combo blade at full height, no pushstick or featherboard) was the single sketchiest thing I think I’ve ever seen at DMS to date.

In addition to what Tom mentioned, the gouges that get added to our fence and the occasional dip between the throatplate and table can make it harder to keep some boards vertical, which makes resawing on our table saws a bit more perilous than others.


We’ll I’m at least glad to know I wasn’t just pushing the board poorly… definitely wouldn’t feel comfortable resawing on the table saw so I’ll just hold off.

Just looking for trouble

The ceramics guides have been replaced… drift has been checked and adjusted…

You seeing sparks off the guides are/ is normal…
every time a blade change happens
Ceramics need to be readjusted and drift needs to be checked… if you don’t know how to do this get with me and I’ll show you.


I’ve used with good success a combination approach: two cuts with table saw 1-2 inches in depth into the board from each side, then finish on band saw. This make less work for the band saw, less opportunity for blade to wobble around/drift as much, and importantly, the cuts from table saw serve as my visual guide while re-sawing on bandsaw…one doesn’t really even need a fence at that point (assuming enough width on board to be stable). Test this method on a two-foot length of 2x4 (using a much less depth of cut on table saw) and see what you think.


Thank you!!

@got_tools Does this video capture what you did to set for blade drift?

Also for those that change blades - this is a good vid on how to set up a bandsaw with bearings. The Best Way to Set Up a Bandsaw! - YouTube


Same result… my method was a little different… the video doesn’t mention using a square board.! I used 3/4 finish plywood because all the edges were square …

I marked a like halfway and cut to the point and then I clamped the board to the table. then brought the fence to the board and tightened the two fence bolts…the bolts are 6 mm Alan’s